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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 20, '08 From East Coast Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
EDIT - Today, this morning I tried to start it. She fired right up but then immediately died. Tried again and heard a couple backfires and popping and died again. I tried to hold the gas down a little to see if I could hold it with gas... couldn't start, seemed like it had no fuel even though it's half full. Any ideas?
Hey guys, my car's been running real nice for the past couple years and is cam'd and tuned since Oct. 2012 - put about 12k miles on it since the cam install and tune. Never had an issue. Anyway, today getting on the highway car started acting funny and started hesitating. Then it turned into a real rough hesitation and forced me to slow down from 65 mph to about 35 mph. Finally came to a stop and she died. Turned right back on but very poppy. I was able to get it back up to 60 mph to make it home but was hesitating quite a bit...almost sounded like a quite machine gun at times. Also, once off the highway when nearing a stop, she got really poppy and wanted to quit. When at a stop light, the idle would fluctuate from 600 to about 1,000 rpm. Things I noticed: - hesitates a lot under local and highway speeds - smells like fuel - usual bass exhaust rumble got less powerful sounding Could it be fuel filter? Fuel pump? What gives! Temperature was normal and oil pressure normal. This post has been edited by 6G96GT: Feb 2, 2014 - 10:41 AM |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 3, '13 From Missourah Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
not sure about that test, but if you can come up with a multi-meter you can measure the coil resistance it should be about .4-.5 ohms on the primary and 10.2k-13.8k ohms on the secondary.
but you have to take the coil out to do that. the test like you're doing says it should be 1/2" away from the frame(idk how big of a difference that is) also if you take the cap off with the wires connected and measure with ohm meter from the inside of the cap contact to the end of the plugwire it should be less than 25k ohms. which shouldn't be a problem if you've replaced the cap and rotor in the last several years ( you said you had a lot of work done to it, but did they neglect the cap/rotor and wires?) for the most part even if you don't have an ohm meter (you can get a cheap one for <$20) but if you take the cap off and look at it you could see if there is a lot of carbon built up on the contact surfaces of the cap points and rotor thingy This post has been edited by VavAlephVav: Feb 8, 2014 - 5:24 PM -------------------- Bust a Deal; Face the Wheel.
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: July 20th, 2025 - 1:00 PM |