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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 13, '06 From Kaimuki, HI Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) ![]() |
Ok..look through this thread if you want to see my past attempts.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...chometer+signal In short, my temp gauge and tach gauge don't work anymore. The options I've thought about are (1) getting SS III gauges off ebay for $150 and swapping the odo, or (2) getting a cluster from an early 00's toyota car that has coil-on-plug setup from the factory and putting that tach in with my gauge face (may not be accurate). Option 1 seems more doable, but I don't want to spend the $150 on gauges (PLUS I don't know if my wire harness connects to the SS III gauges, can someone tell me???) If so, all I would need to do is connect the tach wire from my Autronic ecu and configure, correct? Hopefully the wire connectors aren't needed. Option 2 seems cheaper if I can find working used gauges on ebay. I'm concerned about the tach signal not lining up with the correct numbers (since I would have the moving parts from the donor car and the gauge face from mine). The only other downside would be that I still have to fix my temp gauge. My only questions are about the interchangeability of the SS III gauges with the celica (manual trans GT convertible). And if anyone knows what other toyota models with coil-on-plugs would be good candidates for using the RPM gauge in the celica. -------------------- -Jay
95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other 01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished 02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 13, '06 From Kaimuki, HI Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) ![]() |
So I got a little creative the other day and figured out how to compare the celica gauges to the 99 - 02 tundra gauges without actually having them near me. I used math. Between 0 and 7k rpm there is the same degree of sweep, or close enough for it to not matter much. The screw holes that are in the picture on the outside of the gauge hold in the assembly. The fact that the gauges are shifted more counterclockwise on the tundra doesn't really matter much. I would just place the needle on 1k rpm when the car is idling (or 1100 or 900 or whatever it naturally idles at)
![]() This post has been edited by match220: Mar 9, 2014 - 10:56 AM -------------------- -Jay
95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other 01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished 02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve |
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