Wheel Bearing Races?, Do I need outer and inner races for wheel bearing? Options

[dangqiwu]

I bought a Timken front wheel bearing for my 1995 Toyota Celica ST. And I bought inner and outer seals too.
But in the service tech manual I found the outer and inner race, snap ring, and dust deflector. I don't have these on hand.
Someone said the races come with the bearing so that I don't bother to buy more races.

Could anyone clarify this idea? Do I need to buy additional outer and inner races, snap ring, and dust deflector?

Thank you!





This post has been edited by dangqiwu: Jan 2, 2013 - 11:25 PM

[Langing]

I bought a Timken front wheel bearing for my 1995 Toyota Celica ST. And I bought inner and outer seals too.
But in the service tech manual I found the outer and inner race, snap ring, and dust deflector. I don't have these on hand.
Someone said the races come with the bearing so that I don't bother to buy more races.

Could anyone clarify this idea? Do I need to buy additional outer and inner races, snap ring, and dust deflector?

Thank you!

Thanks for providing the image and illustration along with your question. They help a lot. I recently bought two of the same Timken front wheel bearings so I could change out what I thought were 20 year old bearings in my 1994 Celica.

Like you, in the beginning I knew little about how bearings worked, what races were and how all those parts functioned together. Turned out it was true that the two races were both part of the bearings I bought.

Adding to my confusion, the FSM for my Celica has an almost identical illustration as the one you provided that shows two INNER RACES making up the assembled wheel bearings I purchased. Your illustration shows an "4. Hub bearing inner race" and an "9. Hub bearing outer race." I don't think both your posted illustration and my FSM illustration could be correct, but which one is incorrect? This goes along with my belief that the terminology used in discussing bearings is a little obscure to those outside the field.

I have a thought arguing for the use of INNER RACE twice in the shop manual drawing. Think of the bearing as it is constructed, and think of it as two concentric circular-like basic parts, and you are looking at it END ON, rather than as shown on those exploded parts drawings. What you see then is an inner race inside an outer race. Here there are actually two inner races (but you only see one when looking on end), and the outer race turns out to be double wide. The inner and outer races form two distinct raceways, one on each side of middle of the bearing length, with their highly polished inside surfaces. Between the 'inner" and "outer" races are two assembles of ball bearings, where all balls are contained, maintained, loosely in evenly spaced holes formed in round cages made of what looks like plastic, and the ball bearing/cage assemblies simply rotate inside their contained space (the raceways). As the assemblies are rotating, the bearings are rolling.

Of course, all of these parts are solidly packed with special wheel bearing grease, so when you look at the bearing end on, you simply see two circular metal pieces, one inside the other, and the two pieces are separated by a blackish something or other (the grease).

In another comment in this thread, I tried to explain why Toyota considers that the snap ring and dust deflector are NON-REUSABLE parts, meaning that you need to buy new ones, along with the bearing and inner and outer seals whenever replacing a front wheel bearing.

This post has been edited by Langing: Jun 23, 2014 - 10:17 AM