97cecilia 1mzfe, swap and new looks Options

[97cecilia]

I wanna thank smaay and all those who will and have been helping me out in the transformation of my 97 celica st soon to be a 97 celica/solara

Smaay: lead mechanic and mad scientist of 1mzfe swaps
Derrick and luis: for interior exterior parts
xFAHxQx: Rims
Teo V in Bulgaria: fog lights

And those plany more members of this great web site pictures will be uploaded tomorrow of the motor and of the Rims that are being painted by me, if you wanna take a look below is a link to all the pictures.

https://m.flickr.com/#/activity/

Thank you to all from 97cecilia can't wait to show the finished producted.

[Smaay]

Ok here is a BIG update!!!!!

this is the mod you have to do with the EGR cooler on the 1MZ. i didnt get a side pic to show how the flange sticks out. But what you have to do is cut the flange off, then weld the flange right onto the pipe. This is necessary to help clear the steering rack. I will also plug the O2 sensor port here and the sensor will be located on the Y pipe.









Now to the good stuff.

If you get an Auto 1MZ it will prpbably come with the flex plate like this. You will need to remove it and get a Flywheel and new flywheel bolts.



Here is the Fidanza (highly recommended) flywheel and ARP studs (also highly recommended)





Here is the Southbend Clutch mounted. Again i recommend this clutch, call Southbend and talk to Andy or John in the imports dept. and tell them you are doing a 1MZ swap using the stock S54 transmission. They will provide the correct clutch.



Ok now onto mounting the S54. the top 2 bolts are perfectly aligned, you dont have to do anything to them.



This bolt hole is right under the starter location. in this location the 5S-FE uses 14mm bolt so the hole is smaller. you need to use a drill bit to open the hole to support the larger bolt that the 1MZ block accepts



Here is a look at the bottom of the block, the 2 bottom holes do not line up.



What im going to come up with is a plate that bolts to the 2 holes you see on the 1MZ block and then has a single hole for the transmission to bolt to. Ill Post pics of that when I build the plate.



This hole again is for the larger E153 to bolt to the 1MZ, in this case you will use a smaller 14mm bolt through the engine and into the trans.



Here is the Auto rear header. It is slightly longer and angled differently than the manual rear header. you want to get your hand on the Manual header, its easier on the shift cables and that tab does not hit the transmission.



Here is the MT header. I cut off that tab, its not used.



side by side of the headers



The puny 7A-FE and auto trans coming out.







Here is a shot of the power steering lines. I haven't determined if both of these ends get re-used, but they do need to be rotated up, loosen the bolts and just rotate the hoses up to the firewall.



Out comes the auto gear selector. This was really straight forward.









Push in on this button to release the selector, pull it down to make it easier to get out.







The HUGE Auto brake pedal needs to come out.



Looking under the dash, you can see the location for the clutch pedal and master cylinder mounting.



Take out this nut and bolt to get the brake pedal out



Holes Drilled, the center hole needs to be bigger.



Manual brake pedal installed.



Clutch pedal assembly installed. Luckily the clutch start switch wiring was there so I just had to plug it in.







This is where part of the clutch lines are mounted



Hole for the shifter cable



Shifter assembly installed





While i had everything open, i swapped out the ECU









back to the power steering lines





here you can see the ST and GT passenger side mounting bolt holes. The ST are in black and GT are in red. Since this is an ST im going to try to fab up some plate to use the stock body mount that will bolt to the 1MZ





This was an ST auto so all the transmission mounts had to be purchased. Ill add the part numbers when I get a chance.



and where it sits now.




Im also about 88% done with the wiring harness. It takes me about 12 hours to do the entire harness. Its not as easy as it sounds. There is lots of splicing and routing of wires.

This post has been edited by Smaay: Jul 29, 2014 - 11:25 AM