Gauges fuse keeps blowing, windows don't work either Options

[RoadRage]

Hey guys, I'm having a bit of an issue
I took out my Control Unit thingy when i had a go at wrapping in carbon fibre


All i basically did is undo the 3 screws on the back, wrap and put back together and now next morning while driving my gauges went out while driving, Stopped and replaced the fuse but it blew instantly, I noticed the power windows don't work either however the fuse is not blown.
I took the control unit thing out and unplugged the power window (along with the lock button) and put a new fuse for the gauges and then didnt blow.


After driving for a while it was fine, but driving on the way back home on the highway the gauge went out again

I am assuming the wiring must have been tugged and something came loose when playing with the control unit... because when i check now the fuse name it says
gauges and metres, power door lock system

so nothing to do with the control unit.. maybe a loose ground?
anyone here got any ideas??
Thanks

This post has been edited by RoadRage: Aug 16, 2014 - 11:18 PM

[RoadRage]

I had the battery jump started and both alternator and battery ran at about 14 volts, but once the fuse blew it dropped to 10v and stayed there,

putting a new fuse in then basically just sucks the power out of the car till it dies or fuse blows again

[Noahwhite2014]

I had the battery jump started and both alternator and battery ran at about 14 volts, but once the fuse blew it dropped to 10v and stayed there,

putting a new fuse in then basically just sucks the power out of the car till it dies or fuse blows again

This sounds like a bad alternator. changing voltages (going from 14 to 10) would cause the current to change as well (but the current should be lower right..? not go higher and blow a fuse)
If you can get a good 12.5V (ish) on your battery with the car off, get a new alternator or have it tested then get a new alternator if its bad. Most places SHOULD waive the alternator testing fee when purchasing a new alternator... If they don't they are cheap as hell.... And mention it after having it tested. If the alternator is good, pay the fee i suppose but now you have a bigger problem, you've got to go hunting for shorts and all kinds of different possibilities....

Good luck man!

Edit: Going from 14 to 10v sounds like the typical bad alternator not being able to keep up with the normal load (aka bad alternator ) BUT the fuses blowing... sounds like a short, but the problems could be tied together.

This post has been edited by Noahwhite2014: Aug 20, 2014 - 10:41 PM