Throttle Body Coolant Bypass (with pics), Want to bypass the coolant flow to your Throttle Body on you 5SFE? Options

[Spider77]

So, after quite a few PM's on how to do this I finally broke down and took some pics. You will notice however that I did not put everything back to "factory settings", ie, I just took a few pictures and hope that they'll help the ones who want to know how to do this.
First off though, a warning:
****THE COOLANT WILL BE HOT AFTER RUNNING THE ENGINE, THEREFORE TO AVOID BURNS I STRONGLY SUGGEST THAT YOU LET THE ENGINE/COOLANT SYSTEM COOL DOWN BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO THIS, I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR PERSONAL HARM THAT MAY BE CAUSED WHILE ATTEMPTING THIS, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED****

STEPS:
1:) You want to start by disconnecting your SRI/CAI/Stock Intake at the throttle body:

2:) Disconnect the 4 Vac lines (three on top, one that sits lower):

3:) Disconnect the Throttle Cables (one for Man, two for Auto):

4:) Remove TB by pulling the 4 12 mm bolts:

5:) Remove TB from Intake Plenum:

6:) You will notice three lines hooked into the TB, two outside line (coolant) and one middle line (vac). You want to "bypass" the TB by linking the two coolant lines together, using a 5/16th brass bard (male to male) fitting and screw clamps to tighten it down. Please do not use existing hardware as its probably been sitting there for a while and chances are it wont stand up. Please use new hardware (screw clamps).




7: After you insert brass barb (male to male fitting) and tighten down the screw clamps, you might want to install some vac caps on the coolant ports. Although I cant say if its required, for me its just piece of mind):

8: Reattach the Vac line (its the middle port)!

8.5: Totally optional, but at this time I did a minor cleaning of the TB, and the butterfly valve. Not required, but while its open, might as well, right?
9: Check your work. This is what you should have, two coolant lines "looped" together, two coolant ports capped (optional), and the Vac line (the middle port) reattached. Make sure that your screw clamps are tight (either use a socket or the right size four point to make sure its super tight...don't want leaks), and again, check another time. Once you are sure everything is done, place your throttle body back on the intake plenum, place the SRI/CAI/Stock Intake back on, and enjoy!

While I can not say this is how it is for different engines, the concept is the same. So, for all those people PM'ing me, this is how you do it (again ,mind you its not a pure step by step, but you'll get the idea), and for those who want to know how to TB Bypass on the 5SFE, here you go!
I hope this can help answer this question to some extent. If anyone sees anything wrong with this (ie mislabeling please let me know so I can correct).
Thanks and hope you enjoy!

[Smaay]

guys the reason there is coolant going through the TB is to prevent it from freezing open. in certain climates where its really cold and humid its possible for it to freeze open. thats bad. so the warm water prevents that.

It has nothing to do with the IAC. that is all ECU controlled.

[Langing]

guys the reason there is coolant going through the TB is to prevent it from freezing open. in certain climates where its really cold and humid its possible for it to freeze open. thats bad. so the warm water prevents that.

It has nothing to do with the IAC. that is all ECU controlled.

With that strong throttle spring that immediately closes the butterfly valve whenever you take your foot off the pedal, there are really places cold enough with high humidity conditions that can freeze the throttle wide open? For real? Are you absolutely certain? Like people drive their cars on the Bering Sea, maybe? Any place where the temperature drops well below freezing, I would think the humidity drops correspondingly as moisture in the air freezes. That should be true unless you are tossing sea water through your air filter, TB, and into your intake. Yet here is a fellow from Chicago (pretty cold there) who claims that a fellow from Southern California (pretty not cold there) is correct in stating this as fact. Can anyone cite a reference to validate their claim?

Hey, I sorry if I seem stupidly stubborn, but I learn something new every single day, and I am happy being wrong when I am because I learn from mistakes. I've actually never heard of a throttle freezing (like from ice) wide open, and can't imagine a way for it to happen in a real car driving on earth. Maybe when it is "really cold" (like way below zero F) the intake air, being so damn cold, doesn't require much moisture in the TB for it to freeze, or maybe it is just at the point of freezing where it becomes a problem? Maybe it has something to do with the physics of the formation of ice crystals or something? If true however, someone please show me a reference so I can believe it. If not a reference, has anybody experienced this phenomenon personally?

I remember people on this website who swore to me that cast iron absolutely could not bend without shattering, yet, after spinning my wheels over that true belief for almost a month, I was finally able to demonstrate that proposition wrong when it comes to the steel that is used to make Toyota steering knuckles, plus I found six incidents posted on Toyota car websites where other people reported bent ears on steering knuckles. Some fellow on this website even reported Pep Boys heating the ears on his steering knuckle and bending them back in place (how they got them perfectly straight I'd still like to know). Without a shred of doubt, the ears on my steering knuckle were bent. Another one put in its place solved my rotor dragging problem.

In conclusion, when I examined the illustrations in my 1994 Celica ST shop manual this afternoon, I could not find coolant hoses going to and coming from the TB. So, what you guys are telling me is that, given the right weather conditions, my Celica's throttle can potentially freeze wide open?