3sge 3. gen. tuning Options

[TARManiAC]

Hi. I´m about to do a complete overhaul on my 3. gen 3sge. Bearings, toothbelt, seals, gaskets, and pistonrings. And while I´m at it I thought, hey why not have
some fun at the same time. So now I got St205 brakes and a s54-06d gearbox waiting for installation too. It´s making 188 hp on 95 octane (we have 98 in this
country) with a decat and KN panel filter + an alu lightweight crankpulley.

I ´ve done a lot of research on this engine and I think I have a pretty good Picture of what I want. I´m going for re-shaped cams, a good maschinist shop will make
them into 264*. I´m going to up the compression by shaving off the head, install a Fidanza flywheel, make a cai into the oe box along with supporting mods like
Magnecor leads a wideband lambda sensor and perhaps an adjustable fpr or high capacity fuelpump. No piggyback or standalone at the moment, but it is on the list for future mods.
My thoughts are:

1. how much can I shave off the head? I once read somewhere (can´t find it anymore) that 1mm is ok. My concerns here are mainly detonation,
but also piston/valve contact (but I don´t think so as this engine is a non interference engine), and cambelt slack.

2. will the oe green injectors be able to deliver enough fuel? I don´t know how much they are rated at.

Thank you for reading

[Rusty]

I don't understand why European owners keep getting bhp dyno readings.

If the engine is putting out a remarkable 188bhp from 95, a decat & panel filter why is it getting an overhaul? If you are opening it up, open it up once & do it right

First off remove the aluminium lightweight crank pulley - As it puts the balance of the crank out of spec.


Cam specs are a bit vague, what Deg @ 1mm lift? are you increasing cam lift?

Injectors, FPR & pump are fine as is.

Any porting of the head? Valve job? What extractors are you using? Balance crank?

You need to be thinking about what ecu you are running either piggyback, reflashed or standalone, a you will not get the best reults from the your modifications without it.

What will be the new rev limit? Power, compression goals?

Info on FPR, when to buy & not buy them.

Aftermarket fuel pressure regulators (FPR’s) are one of the most popular items people buy when starting to modify their car. The truth is that aftermarket FPRs are more often than not unnecessary and the factory FPR will do the job just fine. Let’s have a look at when you should be fitting an aftermarket FPR so you don’t waste your money:

If you are fitting a mild fuel system upgrade such as a Walbro pump and/or larger injectors then the factory regulator will cope quite happily.
If you are getting near the limit of your injectors and just need a little more fuel to get by, an adjustable FPR can be used to increase the fuel pressure and hence the flow of the injectors. NOTE: This is only suitable for achieving small increases in injector flow of around 5-10%
If you are fitting an aftermarket fuel rail kit, then usually there will be no provision for the stock FPR. In this case you may have no choice but to use an aftermarket unit.
If you are installing a large fuel system with bigger lines then the factory FPR may be too restrictive resulting in uncontrollable fuel pressure. In this case a higher flowing aftermarket FPR is the solution.
When buying an adjustable FPR, stay away from the cheap-ass Chinese products. While these may save you a few bucks over a quality name-brand product, inconsistent fuel pressure can also cause expensive engine damage.
If you have read the tips above and you have decided that you do need a FPR then get in touch with us. STM can supply a wide range of adjustable FPRs to suit just about any engine combination or power level and we can advise you on the best product to suit your requirements and budget.