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![]() Enthusiast ![]() Joined Dec 9, '14 From Juneau, Alaska Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) ![]() |
I'm replacing a bad rear engine mount in my Celica GT with a 3SGTE engine swap. The rear engine mount on my swap is basically the same as a Celica with a 5SFE and a Manual Transmission.
The front engine mount is easy to replace and can be done in about an hour. I'm stuck on how to remove the rear mount. I've spend 4 hours so far with limited success. First Problem: removal of the through bolt holding the mount to the engine bracket. This was a pain. the power steering rack mount point is is the way. You can bend the bold away from the mount but it's hard to bend out and pull at the same time. Solution: Leave the front engine mount off and to use a smaller bolt to push in the hole on the other side and lightly tap the bolt out with a hammer. the tapping combined with bending it away from the power steering rack mount worked. Second Problem: Getting the motor mount out This is the hard part. it has long bolts that hold it and the cross member to the sub-frame. By the time you pull the bolts out, the mount bumps against the engine bracket and the power steering rack. Solution: I haven't figured this part out yet. I tried unbolting the cross member and I'm moving it around to see if that helped. I think that and rocking the engine and maybe unbolting the power steering rack to get it out of the way. Does anyone have any ideas or techniques?? More on this topic including pictures coming soon! |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() Joined Dec 9, '14 From Juneau, Alaska Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) ![]() |
The install process went the same as in his video. With the cross member out, angle the mount so the bolts are pointing forward then wiggle the cross member until the bolts slide into the holes. I had more trouble with the center bolt going through the mount as the power steering rack mounting area is in the way. I got it in by wiggling and bending things while pushing the bolt. It took about 15 minutes or so. Torquing the bolt was tough too as the torque wrench didn't have much room between the car and the sub-frame and my 3" exhaust pipe. the manual says 64 ft pounds for the center bolts and 57 or 59 ft pounds for the bottom bolts and nuts. I thought it was too much torque for the bottom bolts so I slowly tightened them but it felt like it was going to twist off at any minute. The front bolts for the cross member to the frame are only 26 ft pounds. as they are 12mm bolts this is not surprising but it doesn't seem like much for what they support.
The new mounts worked great! The inside of the car has much less vibration than before. Now I just have to fix the gas leak I discovered while under the car and I'm back on the road! This post has been edited by antoine64: Jul 29, 2015 - 3:35 PM |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: July 13th, 2025 - 6:23 PM |