Rav4 3sfe to 5sfe engine swap Options

[ricochet1490]

So, I bought my first Rav4 about a month or 2 ago. I've been in the celica world for a long time and I wanted a winter beater. As it turns out, the 3s decided that it was going to start Rod knocking like a beast. Needless to say, car needed work.

I had an old 5s just sitting on a pallet in the garage collecting dust. it came from a 94 celica, and it ran when it was pulled.

Now that I've got everything out of the Rav, and from what i'm told, the 5s block will need ground on the back to make space for the transfer case, but otherwise it should be pretty straight forward I think.

I haven't had time to research everything... but to be honest there isn't much out there on this particular swap because there aren't that many gains to be had. For me the gains are purely $$$.

if you guys see anything glaring, PM me and let me know if you would....

The Plan
1) swap wiring harness from 3sfe to 5sfe
2) "depending on how the ecu works out", swap over exhaust manifold because of OBD1/OBD2 differences in the model years
3) hook tranny and T-case to 5sfe ( grind block as needed, additionally brace as needed for missing mounting points)
4) repair subframe rust, mount engine and tranny to subframe - reinstall in car
5)hook everything back up including 3sfe ecu to run engine. ** Pray ecu can deal with extra stroke/air and change fuel delivery to accomodate**
6) ** pray that i don't need to swap injectors to do this to get engine to running** - Does anyone know if there is much in the way of difference between the injectors? basically I'm looking to run the 5sfe like a stroked 3sfe. Should work I'd think.

[Pez]

I was just a passer by, reading your thread. I worked in a shop specializing in toyotas and lexus for 4 years and worked on a lot of these engines. If the car runs and simply dies with no struggle (ex. no shaking, stuttering, choking) after a short time of running then i can almost gaurentee that its crank position sensor related. Check to make sure you have RPM on the tach while its running, no RPM = no crank signal, the computer runs initially off open loop where it doesn't look for crank signal, but after a short period of time it switches to closed loop and cannot run without crank signal. The check engine light for CKP confirms this. There is no need to change injectors, fuel pump, spark plugs, those things would have very diffrent symptoms. Check your wiring, your connections, and ecu pinout in relation to your CKP and i think you will find your issue. Most cars do not run long or even start with CKP problems. Best of Luck, jeff

This post has been edited by Pez: Aug 23, 2016 - 12:55 PM