Sluggish Celica, Check engine light on too Options

[Tru_Pol]

Ok, I bought a 95 celica ST with 70,000 miles on it for 500.00 bucks sometime ago. I have installed a custom cold air intake, racing plugs, wires, and a new cap. I have removed the 1st cat and hollowed it out (so if I get pulled over I can show its still there) and have a B5 bomber muffler. I have also just installed my bullet fenders (painted too). I have alot more planned but have run low on cash.

Now my problem.......My check engine light has come on and the car seems to run sluggish. It seems to take a long time to get the car to move. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Im thinking it might be a clogged fuel injector, or fuel filter. Any ideas would be great!

[Tru_Pol]

Heres what I found on the web......I figured I would post this incase anyone else has this problem.


I just finished replacing my dead toyota knock sensor with a cool GM unit courtesy of Mr. Bunch (thanks Aaron). I was a bit worried about the job since the sensor is way down under the intake manifold. And I was kicking myself becuase it wasn't two weeks ago I had the intake manifold off (yes it can come off without taking off the head, I have done it twice) doing some work and could have easily replaced the sensor then (wasn't bad at the time). But, for all of those "code 52-ers" our there, I found a way to get at the sensor that makes the job a snap! Here is the run-down on the new "Rob Method."

What you will need:
· Send Aaron B. the $80 and pick up the GM sensor.
· 27mm deep socket
· Normal 22mm socket Ratchet
· Small extender Flashlight
· Jack
· jackstand

Take off the RH front wheel (use the jackstand to support the car, trust me on this, I have had a close encounter with death because I was lazy and stupid).
Use the flashlight to peek in the steering linkage hole. Holy Crap! There it is, the green plug. Within arm's reach. Reach in and unplug it. Put the 27mm socket on it, then the extender and ratchet. Out it comes. Use the handy-dandy quick connector thing that Aaron sent you to connect the new sensor's wire to the old connector (this took a little dexterity). Screw in the new sensor with the 22mm socket. Voila! Piece o' cake!
No more code 52, and my car runs great again. No more bogging and bucking under boost!