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![]() Enthusiast ![]() Joined Nov 24, '03 From MA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Ok, so the blue smoke on startup is the valve seals. Here's a question:
Do the valve seals get replaced when an engine is rebuilt? It sure looks like just replacing the seals is almost the same cost as completely rebuilding the engine. If that's the case, I might seriously consider it. The car has 90,000 miles on it and it puffs blue smoke when I start it. What are the benefits of rebuilding the engine? If it's going to be rebuilt, are there any improved parts I should use? Keep in mind that I "don't know cat piss" about how to take apart an engine, so I'd be having it done professionally and paying through the nose for labor. Some might say I should swap the engine. My concern with that is I would want to switch the AT to MT (more money), and I don't know what putting a ridiculous amount of power into my car without changing anything else would do to it. That and I'm paranoid so I'd want to rebuild the new engine anyway before putting it in. I really can't afford this option. Let's assume I have $1500 maximum for this project. In any case, I must replace the valve seals somehow. Should I rebuild while I'm at it, rebuild with improvements, just replace the valve seals, or shut up because I don't know what I'm talking about? Thanks! |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 31, '02 From KC Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
1: Are you sure its the valve stem seals? could be just a stuck PCV or something,,,just how much oil is it using? Valve stem seals will typically blow smoke after an extended time idling, you have oil running off the cam while running, and a high vacuum reading at idle, which can suck oil past the seals, usually get a good puff of blue smoke after a long traffic light. If its just a single puff in the mornings, I wouldn't worry about it. could just be an injector leaking down overnite and washing oil off the cyl walls. You might also consider a good synthetic like Amsoil or mobil1, may cut down some oil usage. (not to mention helping perf and cutting wear)
2: A compression test will only tell you if you have worn compression rings or valves not seating. it does NOT tell you if the oil control rings are good. (I learned this the hard way). 3: Another alternative is to find a good low-mileage 5SFE from a salvage yard and change the whole engine. a late model celica or camry that was rear-ended would be ideal. This is a last resort, yours shouldn't have anything seriously wrong at only 90k |
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