best springs? Options

[drdos]

What would you guys reccomend for the best springs for more of performance and not comfort ride.

Would you said ebiach prokit? or sport line?

[neophile]

If you're after increased performance, and don't mind a stiffer ride, might I suggest you look at non-progressive springs (TRD?). Also remember that springs are only part of the equation, shocks, swaybars, bushes etc can all have a big impact on how the car handles.

Also, while lowering a car can improve handling, this is only up to a certain point, after which the car can actually handle worse than the stock set up - to the point of being dangerous. Take a look at this post from toyspeed.org.nz, the author is very experienced in these things and puts it a lot better than I could:

"when you lower a vehicle you change the roll centre, which is a suspension angle and alignment thing, basically you can only lower a vehicle so far before you make the car handle easily worse then stock (very generally 1-2" with an increase in spring rate is about right). The point Snoozin was trying to make (although he didn't spell it out, if you were real clued up you wouldn't need to be told anyways) is that you can only lower a vehicle slighly before you change the suspension geometry so much that you affect roll centre adversely. Very generally just to give an example that the lay men out there can appreciate, say your looking at the front mac pherson struts on a car, you have an upright coil over shock which bolts to your hub, your hub is connected by a ball joint to a control arm (which is essentially a wishbone) in a normal stance the control arm will angle down from the chassis towards the hub with the hub pivot sitting lower then the pivot point on the chassis, this is very important aspect. When the car is cornering and weight is transfered (and the car tilts onto the outside wheel, we all know what body roll is) the coil over contracts up as the spring is compressed under the load the hub follows and would you now it the control arm does to, now comes the hard part to explain, because of the angle of the control arm and the fact that outside pivot of the control arm is sitting higher it is also further out from the chassis (think of it cutting an arc) this dials in more camber to the the outside wheel and improves that tyres contact patch to suit the cars angle of roll.
The problem is when you lower a car dramatically (even 2" and its very likely your control arms will be level when the suspension is neutral) your control arms dont point down and out like they used to, they are either level or in the worse case point upwards, if the roll centre of your front suspension is like that then as that side of the car becomes loaded mid corner you decrease your negative camber and subsequently the cars contact patch. "

Hope this helps