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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Nov 12, '02 From Webster Ma. Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
i figure 220 ish chp and 227ctq. how about you?
13psi. 93 octane gas no additives. ![]() ![]() im happy with it for now. once i get cams ill be good. ![]() ps woot. 4 little boxes now This post has been edited by x_itchy_b_x: Nov 6, 2004 - 3:47 PM -------------------- |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 17, '04 From Houston Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Just FYI, the 3sgte can in fact handle more than 1bar reliably (as reliably as anything is with a turboed car anyway). I run 15 daily, two other guys in town run 17 daily, it's not that uncommon. The limitation is in fact the turbo itself, CT26 seals just don't like to go higher boost, the turbo is not efficient at those levels, pushing a lot of hot air for less good. When you have an a different turbo that's more efficient and can safely run the boost like Hyde, that's not as much of an issue. For the cracking pistons, with the stock turbo it's hard to exhaust the stock fuel system, at 17 psi it's probably got the injectors working at a high duty cycle, but unless they fail, lean isn't likely. There are a couple of easy precautions, namely sticking an egt probe in exhaust manifold runner 3 which, as we all well know, is the cylinder that will go lean first due to the 3s intake manifold design. You have that backup and it's easy enough to back off as soon as EGTs get a bit higher than they should.
To put it simply, the 3s is a pre-engineered Turbo setup. No guessing if you leave it basically stock. The 5s is EXTREMELY well engineered in its own right, but not as a turbo motor. That doesn't mean it can't be turbo'ed well, it just means you have a lot of things to take care of that you don't with the 3s. There's no better or more cost effective way IMO, they both are expensive to do RIGHT and they both can yield extremely good results. I've owned 2 MR2s (a 93 with 190k miles, a 91 with 173k miles which I have still) and an Alltrac (90 with 123k miles) as well as a 94 Celi GT which has had internals built in preparation to a 5sfte project I haven't got around to completing yet. I can tell you I sunk a lot of money into every single car. Each car had its own quirks, and building up the 5sfe wasn't as cheap as it should of been, quite simply because things can happen that you can't predict, as happened with me. By the same token, another guy who is trying to swap got a bad motor to start with and is having problems. Whichever way you choose, choose with knowlege, not with what's going to be "cheaper" or "better", choose what's going to be what you wanted out of the car, each setup has strengths and weaknesses. I think it's pretty poor form that some of you have yet again devolved the discussion into a which is better argument. It's pointless and counterproductive, try laying the information out objectively without tossing in opinions to try to steer people one way or another. If someone wants to 5sfte, give them the information or just stay out of it. If they want to swap, again, info or hush. IMO that's the only reasonable way to approach it. BTW, those dyno numbers look great, I do recommend an EGT probe in runner 3 and a good gauge to keep an eye on things ![]() |
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