7AFTE, Building up 7afe internals ect. Options

[94ST2]

Alright I've decided to go down the 7AFTE route. I want to know all the upgrades to the internals and any other upgrades that would allow me to get 14-20 psi for racing if this is possible and around 8-10 for regular street driving. Also would someone describe what blueprinting the engine means and if this would help. Also is there any way to run perhaps a dry or wet shot of NO2 to increse hp or there no internal upgrades strong enough to allow boost and nitrous?

[playr158]

if you want to push 14-20 psi

new rods
new pistons
head work ( I would swap )
hone or bore heck custom sleeves
ems piggy or stand alone
t3 super 60 or t3 t4
electric BC
manifold (log are ok but i would go custom)
there is most of the man stuff
[right][snapback]247709[/snapback][/right]

head swap is not needed imo needless to say nik knows more on the subject
but you CAN achieve 12-14 easily and safely without a head swap you might even be able to reach 20
as i stated

get custom piston LOW CR <---must
get custom rods <---------------must
Bore to 83mm 84mm if your lucky--IMO a must
port and polish the head <------must
3 angle vavle job <--------------must
255lph fuel pump<---------------must
bigger fuel lines <-------------not neccassary
bigger fuel injectors <-----------must
intercooler <----------------------MUST
BOV <-----------------------------needed
greddy profec <------------------must ----this is your engine management system
3" downpipe back exhaust <---needed
custom header <-----------------must
T3/T04e turbo external wastegate <----must LOL
stage 3 clutch----------------------needed
rebuild tranny --------------------needed (titanium parts if you can find them)
boost/ air,fuel/ EGT/ oil pressure/ oil temp/ water temp -----all goood to have gauges
SYNTHETIC OIL------------------NEEDED

if you wanna go CRAZY
i might be on crack but
lighten crank
bore the throttle body
water injection
rework the intake manifold (bore or what ever they do to it)
heat wrap to wrap your intercooler piping and manifold (keeps temps down in the engine bay)
maybe port and polish the exhaust side of things on the motor


BE a GOOD kid say NO TO DRUGS SAY NO TO NOS
thats just a no no for this kind of motor/setup

This post has been edited by playr158: Feb 19, 2005 - 12:22 AM

[Kwanza26]

head swap is not needed imo needless to say nik knows more on the subject
but you CAN achieve 12-14 easily and safely without a head swap you might even be able to reach 20
as i stated

get custom piston LOW CR <---must
get custom rods <---------------must
Bore to 83mm 84mm if your lucky--IMO a must
port and polish the head <------must
3 angle vavle job <--------------must
255lph fuel pump<---------------must
bigger fuel lines <-------------not neccassary
bigger fuel injectors <-----------must
intercooler <----------------------MUST
BOV <-----------------------------needed
greddy profec <------------------must ----this is your engine management system
3" downpipe back exhaust <---needed
custom header <-----------------must
T3/T04e turbo external wastegate <----must LOL
stage 3 clutch----------------------needed
rebuild tranny --------------------needed (titanium parts if you can find them)
boost/ air,fuel/ EGT/ oil pressure/ oil temp/ water temp -----all goood to have gauges
SYNTHETIC OIL------------------NEEDED

if you wanna go CRAZY
i might be on crack but
lighten crank
bore the throttle body
water injection
rework the intake manifold (bore or what ever they do to it)
heat wrap to wrap your intercooler piping and manifold (keeps temps down in the engine bay)
maybe port and polish the exhaust side of things on the motor
[right][snapback]247853[/snapback][/right]

You should really really really NOT preach the gospel especially when you really don't have a clue what you're going on about.

First off... let's say your ultimate goal is to hit 20psi. You don't need to bore the block... and the MAX limits on a 7A block is 83mm. That is the MAXIMUM spec and beyond that you're compromising strength and your limbs. You don't need to port/polish the head, although it would be nice to change the flow patterns. With the FE head and forced induction... it's not about the ability to flow. It's about the flow pattern and the velocity... where it peaks, where it flattens, etc. This reflects directly back the torque band. You don't need to do a 3 angle cut... I'm afraid to even ask you player... if you even know what that is ... Fuel system upgrades are mandatory (pump, injectors). Bigger fuel lines... well... that sounds kinda funny... something someone who doesn't really know what he's talking about would say. Some sort of piggyback fuel controller or management system would also be mandatory, along with at least a 2 bar MAP sensor. The stock sensor is not gonna work at 20psi and the stock computer won't be able to read out the increased charged air. A 3" downpipe is not needed, but would be nice to have along with a larger diameter exhaust system. A custom header... or what we just say, a turbo manifold will be needed along with a turbo capable of spooling efficiently, 20 pounds of boost. A stage 3 clutch is not needed, but should be high on the list unless you like eating through clutches every few thousand miles. Rebuilding the tranny with "titanium" parts... heh. The general rule with titanium... don't make parts with titanium that "wear"... Titanium eats away at other metals and is not very comfortable around other metals. Hence why you don't see titanium engines and pistons and such in production cars. So in a tranny... umm... heh. A rebuilt tranny would be nice... but not needed if your current tranny is in good shape. The MAIN weakness and the biggest limiting factor... Rods and Pistons. The stock pistons can probably hold their own for a little while at 20psi so long as you run a good amount of fuel (slightly rich)... but don't plan on the long haul. Custom low-compression pistons and rods is pretty much mandatory if you wanna make this engine last.

Now for the "Crack"... which you do sound like you're on player...
Lightening the crank. Umm... not needed for a turbo set-up. Lightening the crank is risky business not to mention almost redundant in a f/i set-up because of way a turbo set-up works. Light crank, light fly, etc... reduces load and when extreme, can affect spool, which relys a lot of load. Water injection is a safety thing and would be nice to have... Modified throttle body... well... ehh... it only work if you port match the entire intake manifold. At that point... might as well get a completely different TB and manifold. ITBs anyone? Heat wrap isn't neccesary either... nor is "porting the exhaust side of things". That would be included with "Port and Polish"...

To close... as you all may know... I've singled out playr158 today as my annoyance. It's nice that he's doing his research, reading up on some of the more knowledgeable discussions... but don't be quick to pass it on if you don't know what it is. It may seem mean... but some people don't "get" it until it comes to this. For the most part... I think the original question is too general and too uninformed. There is a LOT of information out there to gather, and to ask such detailed questions without even knowing simple things is not worth the time to explain it... unless I'm annoyed or angry... tis why I barely respond to some of these questions anymore. For now... the information is what it is. I'm sorry playr for singling you out... but if you know you can't chew it... don't take such big bites brotha... ;]