Electrical Nightmare, Grounded out my alternator Options

[[Freemantle]]

I was having one of my friends figure out where in my drivetrain this loud ticking noise was coming from (cracked lifter on an intake valve in #1, this is another day's nightmare).

When he was pulling the main wiring harness from the top of the valve cover, he removed the primary lead from the alternator without taking off the negative battery cable. I was across the garage getting a tool when I heared *crack* as the guide touched the engine bay and the voltage spiked.

My alternator tested good, my battery tested good, here are the electrical systems that still work.

ECU
Fuel Pump
Ignition Coil

That's it.

No Windows, no Lights, no Spedometer or Tach, no A/C, no Fuel Gauge. I pulled all my fuses in the passenger compartment and they were all fine. Anyone know of a relay that could have burnt out to cause every system but the vitals to fail? Thanks for any/all of your help.

I'm picking up a Toyota service manual now. I guess I was going to need one eventually, this is just going to push the turbo setup back a ways.

-nate

[Cutrara]

i dont think you ruined your wiring..... fuses are there to protect the car from this type of thing. you can get a little cheap fuse tester that will help you test all off them to know for sure, or just pull them out one by one and take a look
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Yeah, the only way you can fry your wiring is if you use bigger fuses then you're supposed to, and you have a short. Fuses are a smaller gauge than the wiring so if there is a short, the electricity will burn through the fuse because electricity will burn through the smallest gauge in the loop. If the fuse was bigger than recommended, the whole wire in the loop would be the smallest gauge, and fry the wiring, and possibly set your car on fire.

Rjb mentioned the 40 Amp fuse in the dash. That's probably your best bet.