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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 6, '05 From South Carolina Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I have a few sound system questions.
![]() I'm thinking of adding a sound system to my car by the end of May which gives me enough time to save up. Q1: What is the point in putting a Sub (8") in both side doors? Q2: How much should I roughly look at spending for the system (components in the front, 2 speakers in the back, headunit and a sub 10" with an amp)? I'd like to get one for qaulity and not the extreme bass. Q3: What should I look at when choosing a system? the Sensivity aka the dB? Q4: How do I calculate how much amp I need Q5: What can I do to stop the car from rattling once it is installed? I'm a n00b when dealing with cars -_-. |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 26, '04 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
QUOTE(JonCars17 @ Mar 6, 2006 - 11:30 AM) [snapback]403266[/snapback] I have a few sound system questions. ![]() I'm thinking of adding a sound system to my car by the end of May which gives me enough time to save up. Q1: What is the point in putting a Sub (8") in both side doors? Q2: How much should I roughly look at spending for the system (components in the front, 2 speakers in the back, headunit and a sub 10" with an amp)? I'd like to get one for qaulity and not the extreme bass. Q3: What should I look at when choosing a system? the Sensivity aka the dB? Q4: How do I calculate how much amp I need Q5: What can I do to stop the car from rattling once it is installed? I'm a n00b when dealing with cars -_-. A1 Subs in the doors aren't necessary. I would only get them custom built in along with the speakers. They will give your system some extra depth from the front. A2 This all depends on the brands. I'm not an expert on which brands make the best speakers/subs etc.. but I'd shop around and see what different stores offer, u can always test out their equipment. Usually the more $$$ u spend, the better the product. A3 Sensitivity is not dB-aka loudness. Sensitivity is the range of frequencies the speakers have a response to. It's the overall system that matters in the end. Your tweeters will cover the higher range, your front speakers mid to hi, ur rear speakers are bassier, and ur sub will cover the bass and the kicks. A4 When looking at the amp wattage, if u match the max watt output of both the amp and the sub, u cant go wrong. Again, ask the store ppls to give u advice on which amp, as prices do vary quite a bit depending on power output and type of amp. A5 Dynamat. They're thin sheets that absorb sound, making less sound escape the car and also slightly reducing road noise. I got it myself, it does work, and my boot rattles significantly less ![]() |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 6, '05 From South Carolina Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
So how is this?
CD Player: Alpine CDA-9856 Price: 200 RMS Watts: 18 Watts, Peak Power 50 x 4 channels Component Speakers: Alpine Type-R SPR-17LS Price: 250 RMS Watts: 70, Peak Power: 350 Speakers: Infinity Kappa 652.7i Price: 150 RMS Watts: 75, Peak Power: 225 Sub: Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1 Price: 150 RMS Watts: 350, Peak Power: 1400 Amp: Infinity Reference 611a Price: 350 RMS Watts: 456 watts x 1 at 4 ohms/657 watts x 1 at 2 ohms This post has been edited by JonCars17: Mar 6, 2006 - 9:38 AM |
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