GM knock sensor thread Options

[lagos]

is that an ATS TB inlet? looks nice. i ordered one last week!

Yup, I ordered that and the GM Knock Sensor Conversion for Doc to install. Along with the healthy dose of goodies that he's putting in the car.......should be really niiiiiiice.

i woudlnt recomend using the GM knock sensor. it dosnt work correctly for our cars and ats should stop selling it imho. keep the stock sensor.

[Fastbird]

Guys, I want to clear something up. I did NOT buy the knock sensor conversion so I wouldn't see knock. That would be a huge mistake (not to mention really uneducated buying), and I think that's where a lot of this is coming from. I bought the GM knock sensor conversion so that if I DID encounted knock suddenly and violently, I wouldn't be stuck paying $150 for a new knock sensor.

I think that a lot of the issue stemming this on is that there's most likely quite a few people who don't understand why knock happens and go buy the ATS kit thinking it's going to make the knock go away, which in itself is a HUGE mistake. You need to correct the condition that's causing the knock, not just change the sensor to make it go away (although I did that once because I had a faulty sensor in my T/A ). And like Lagos said, there's a variety of conditions that can cause knock to include hot spots in the burn, lean or rich conditions, too much timing, poor intercooler efficienty (essentially raised IAT's because as we all know as you compress something it heats up).

Something about the GM knock sensor thread from MR2OC that's buried towards the end. Didn't someone find that they actually have a +/-1K response?? In that case, shouldn't the GM sensor be just fine considering it was tested at 5700 and the Toyota one was tested at 6300?? (sorry if the numbers aren't correct, it's early and I don't feel like digging through that thread right now). Not to mention that there was a handful of guys in that thread who did datalogging and intentionally put the car into knocking conditions and got normal reactions from the GM knock sensor.

*Edit* I'd like to dicuss really quickly the knock resonance frequency seen in the blocks. I think we all agree that the bore size plays a major factor in the plan, but here's a though: What about the volume?? What I mean is that what if you're running a terrible intercooler, and you start getting pre-detonation with the cylinder in the bottom of the bore as opposed to the top of the bore?? Would that not drastically change the frequence which the knock resonates? If you take a bare block and tap a cylinder, it will be the same frequency every time. Cap that cylinder off at each end, and the frequency changes. Move one of those caps into the cylinder (stroke, or piston travel) and it changes yet again. *Disclaimer* This is just my own mind at work here, just getting a quick thought out about that.

I apologize for the big stink that's been made here by me for what seems to be the perception that I bought the kit just to not see knock. I didn't realize that's what what the interpretation seemed to be, and I hate to see tension like what's been coming out in this thread between some of the most respected members of this forum.

This post has been edited by Fastbird: Jul 12, 2006 - 7:08 AM