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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Nov 3, '05 From Chicago Suburbs Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
I am about buy an exhaust for my car (3", mandrel, dp-back, over axle,), and I still can't make up my mind wheter to get it in stainless or mild... this is what i know about the two
Stainless: + Way more corrosion resistant than mild steel + Usually weights less because pipes can be thiner + Nice shiny finish ![]() + Will outlast the car - Significantly more expensive - Can be brittle when heat-cycled (subject to cracking but IMO should affect the DP only) - Higher pitch of exhaust sound (tends to be "drony") Mild: + Less expensive + Deeper sound + More tolerant of extreme heat - Will last approx. 2-4 years of all-season driving unless ceramic coated - Ceramic coating will bring the price up to cost of stainless - usually heavier and less corrosion resistant than stainless I can get mild for about $500 or stainless for about $750 Please help me make up my mind ![]() -------------------- QUOTE(tufy @ Jul 19, 2006 - 7:40 AM) [snapback]458074[/snapback] i dont drive fast, i just fly low |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 31, '04 From Summerville, SC Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
Just also consider how they are welding it. If they are doing a stainless exhaust but they're using a regular MIG welder with mild steel wire, then the welds WILL rust out before too long.
A properly built stainless setup will be TIG-welded with stainless rod (or, MIG-welded with stainless wire, but you don't see this very often because you need to change a lot of the settings on the mig, and normally people only have one. Changing out that wire every time you need to go between mild and stainless is a real pain.) Keep this consideration in your price, because normally shops that do it right charge a lot more. And if they aren't going to TIG-weld your stainless exhaust, then you might as well just go with a full mild-steel setup. -Doc This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Aug 5, 2006 - 7:58 AM -------------------- -Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaire Click here to see my swaps drtweak@phoenixtuning.com |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Nov 3, '05 From Chicago Suburbs Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
QUOTE(Dr_Tweak @ Aug 5, 2006 - 7:57 AM) [snapback]465714[/snapback] Just also consider how they are welding it. If they are doing a stainless exhaust but they're using a regular MIG welder with mild steel wire, then the welds WILL rust out before too long. A properly built stainless setup will be TIG-welded with stainless rod (or, MIG-welded with stainless wire, but you don't see this very often because you need to change a lot of the settings on the mig, and normally people only have one. Changing out that wire every time you need to go between mild and stainless is a real pain.) Keep this consideration in your price, because normally shops that do it right charge a lot more. And if they aren't going to TIG-weld your stainless exhaust, then you might as well just go with a full mild-steel setup. -Doc Good point, mild option is from DG performance, stainless would be through speed-source... I believe that both use TIG. One important thing to remember is that i need to drive my car in winter on salt/snow/sand so muffler, silencer, cat (possibly) will be stainless. -------------------- QUOTE(tufy @ Jul 19, 2006 - 7:40 AM) [snapback]458074[/snapback] i dont drive fast, i just fly low |
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