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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) ![]() |
![]() after my last dyno visit, i decided that i wanted a way to monitor knock on my car. after some reseach i decided to install some LEDs to monitor the factory TVSV system. for those that might not know, TVSV is the factory boost controler that puts the car into "low boost mode" when it senses knock. problem is, that we disable the TVSV system when we install an after market boost controler. anything from bad spark plugs, cold/hot weather, bad gas, etc.. can cause knock at any time. by hooking up LEDs to the tvsv pin on the ecu, you get a very cheap and very realiable knock detection system. here are the basics of setting this up: go to radio shack and buy 2 12v led lights (one red, one green) with built in resistors. next locate the "tpc" function on the ecu. it will be on the 1st ecu plug from the left, pin6, blue and red wire. Tee another wire into that one and run it to where you want your led to go. the way this wire works, is that when u are off boost, it provides 12v, but as soon as u boost (and the ecu senses no problems) that wire changes to a ground. get your red LED and hook up its red wire (+) to the tvsv cable. hook the other end to a ground point. next take your green LED, and hook up its red wire (+) to any power source (like the cig lighter), and hook up its ground wire to the TVSV wire (same one u hooked up the red LEDs positive wire to). then install the lights wherever you want in the car. ![]() if u did this correctly, it will work like this: if the car is at idle, cruising or driving off boost. the RED LED will light up once you start to boost, the GREEN LED will light up if you are boostin, and the ecu detects knock, the RED led will stay on under boost. if u see this, let off the gas asap because your engine is knocking. youll also notice that the RED led stays on for a few min after a knock was detected. sometimes it will even stay on untill you shut the engine off and turn it back on again. this is a great way to monitor if the boost you are running really is safe, or if the hesitation you feel is or isint knock resonse. total cost for this mod: $4 not blowing your motor: priceless ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here are some additional notes on the operation of this mod, that should clear things up for a few people: 1. If you are at idle, or just cruising/daily driving, the tvsv led will stay red. This is normal. 2. Once you start to build boost, it should turn to green and stay that way until you let your foot off the gas. 3. If you are boosting, and the led suddenly turns from green to red, then you have experienced detonation. take your foot off the gas asap, and lower your boost to a level that does not show signs of detonation. Exceptions to the rule: The TVSV led is useless in the winter time when temps reach 40deg or lower. This is because the stock ecu lowers boost in the winter to help prevent you from boost spikes that normally happen when the air is much colder. The factory ecu DOES NOT have any type of boost limit built in for hot summer days. Your led should stay green under boost. If you are seeing the led turn red in the summer, then you are getting detonation. This is normally caused by: 1. Running too much boost - Forgot all people that claim xxPSI is ok. Every car is different. 2. A bad AFM sending incorrect fuel and timing signals to the ecu - very common problem on the 3sgte. 3. Possible fuel system problems. Most likely a fuel pump problem or wiring problem - if you are still on your NA fuel pump, then this might be to blame. This post has been edited by lagos: Jan 10, 2008 - 7:55 PM -------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Oct 17, '04 From St Louis, MO Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
1- if the light isn't red that doesn't mean that you are 100% knock free (just so you don't trust your life when the light is green).
2- u can't log the knock sensor voltage... because it's based on a knock count... u have to take the sensor voltage and filter it at a specific frequency (a frequecny that corresponds to the resonant frequency of knock in a 3sgte) ...the frequency IS motor specific... then once you have the voltage data for JUST that band of frequencies you threshold it at a certain amplitude... and even then, crossing that threshold doesn't mean you have knock... either , 1 you cross that threshold mutliple times within a fixed time window (which you will hear DSM guys refer to as knock count) and if that count is greater than x counts per second then u have a knock EVENT which causes ECU responce... or you have to look ath teh SLOPE of the voltage at that frequency... if the peak voltage rises rapdily say from 0.3 volts to 2.3 volts that means there's a knock event...despite of where the actual knock count threshold comparison voltage is... so in short... no it's quite complex to make your own HKS knock amp ![]() -------------------- 2005 MB C200 Kompressor- K&N, Apexi WS2 Catback, DIY Voltage stabilizer, Intrax Springs, H&R RR swaybar, VDO Boost Gauge @ 6psi, Greddy L7 plugs, +0 Rear tires
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