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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 12, '06 From Wilmington, NC Currently Offline Reputation: 45 (100%) ![]() |
Modified a dodge neon strut bar to fit today. Drilling the holes was really the only hard part and it was a pain because I didn't have the right size drill bit, then my battery kept dieing on my drill. I used my stock strut bar on top for a custom 3-point. I don't have any pics right now, maybe tomorrow when the sun is out (just finished about 10 minutes ago and it's about 1 am now. lol) I dunno if it's going to make any difference yet, as I won't be able to drive my car until at least the 28th...
-------------------- ![]() 94 GT - Sold -------- 69 Pontiac Lemans - Sold 88 Alltrac - Sold ---- 04 WRX - Sold 00 GT-S - Sold ------ 91 Miata - project/drift car 95 GT - Sold -------- 96 GT - New Daily Drive |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 28, '04 From Houston, Texas Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
It's the design and materials that make these type of strut tower braces not as effective as they should be. I custom fit hand made strut tower braces to cars here in Houston [see my profile] and have for almost 10 years.
1. The mounting holes should not have much, if any play, in them. If the hole is too large then the bolt will "travel" that distance before the mount hits the bolt and keeps the car ridged. Let's face facts: your car does not flex even a full inch even under hard cornering so if the free play from both sides of the car is even a 1/16" then that's 1/8" of travel before the strut tower brace does any good at all. 2. the aluminum used in it's construction is also inherintly flexible [by metal standards]. The adjustability of the length doesn't help matters either. 3. The design of the bar where it first comes up at an angle before running straight across also allows for further flex just by design. My custom braces are constructed from light weight super high tensile strength Aircraft Quality Steel - the same stuff used to make aircraft wing struts. Further I hand fit each one to the specific car - not the model type. This means I do not have to allow free play for deviances and tolerances in the production line of the car. You must use a slight downward force on one side to install them. Removal requires getting a flat bladed screwdriver under the mounting surface and giving a slight twist to pop one side up. All of this means my strut tower braces grab and hold instantly and very well. Check out my profile for pics. The stock one is also reinforced with aircraft quality steel inside. You can def feel a difference with these. Another point: The TRD and other three point ones make changing the spark plugs on a GT a real pain in the a$$. I had a TRD one but sold it in favor of the two peice one I made. pop off two bolts and the spark plugs are easily accesible. On the up side, they do look very good in the engine bay and are very affordable and light weight. Try turning it around the other way so the curve sort of follows the curve of the stock v shaped one. This post has been edited by Negative: Dec 8, 2006 - 7:25 AM -------------------- ![]() |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: July 18th, 2025 - 6:46 AM |