Autocross: I got madd questions for you guys!, Info needed for the crowd that autocrosses Options

[jdg371]

Im starting to collect my suspension for an STS Celica. I will be running my Celica in STS[N] for the winter season [3 different series] Being in STS isn't as easy as GSN was.. haha. Right now my stock springs are getting worn [stupid quick]; I will need a replacement as soon as I get the money [haha] For the autoX fellas out there.. what would you recommend???

Some might read this and not get it.. heres an example

Front XX kg
Rear XX kg


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The only other car I can really base it on are the AE92 Crowd.. although they're lighter [300 I think..] and are more rev happy [Damn their stock 4AGE..] suspension is probably closely related [setup wise]


THANKS!

This post has been edited by jdg371: Nov 21, 2006 - 2:43 PM

[DanKimber]

Back in the day the stripped ST coupes were the autocross cars to have. They were actually faster then the GT's. The ST's are lighter, have little to know wheel spin issues (at least my R-compound experience) and have more low end torque then the GT's. I believe that the GT's also fall off of their powerband on the 1 -2 shift.

When the back end of your car rotates be sure to keep your foot in the throttle, to pull it out. I run mine with the back quite loose, either by stiffening the rebound on the shocks, ie tap brake car rotates, or by running 205 tires in the rear.

I currently live in the Milwaukee area, where Jeff Cashmore resides, multiple time national champ, who stills has one of the celicas he used to autocross. For stock Jeff tried all sorts of different front bars and came back to stock bar as being the best.

Locally you may make one into a competitve STS car, but nationally I do not think it will happen. The car even though quite light will always be at a weight disadvantage, and is down on power even compared to the lower powered STS cars (wait a minute they are all low powered!!). The suspension can only be lowered a so much or the geometry will be out of whack and mess up the handling.

For any of them get the full negative camber in the front, and you should be able to yank about 1 degree in the rear. I run with about 1/8" toe out in the front and 0 toe in the rear. A good alingment is the best bang for the buck.

I really like they car, just whish they would have moved it to H-stock like they had proposed.

Dan