JL Audio W7 Options

[KB-2]

okay....so ive been thinking alot...and i really want to get Jl audio subs.

i want to get W7.

now im either gonan get

three 10's
or
two 12's

they will be w7's

and i have yet to decide what amp to get.

my only question is how hard will three 10's actully pound?

i want to be able to atleast pound a little....like so you cna hear me coming from a lil bit away.

i know the 12's will be much louder and pound more, but i really want to get that tight clean punchy bass


so any feedback would be great!

[applejax]

There's a lot of misconceptions flying around this thread.

That eD suggestion is, by far, the best and most complete thought in this thread.

[tim86]

There's a lot of misconceptions flying around this thread.

That eD suggestion is, by far, the best and most complete thought in this thread.

Good job stating the obvious, but please if you say there are a lot of misconceptions, then correct them, and maybe add a "complete thought" of your own.

[applejax]

There's a lot of misconceptions flying around this thread.

That eD suggestion is, by far, the best and most complete thought in this thread.

Good job stating the obvious, but please if you say there are a lot of misconceptions, then correct them, and maybe add a "complete thought" of your own.

Well, I did add a complete thought, I like the eD suggestion. It's easy, it should do what KB-2 is looking for, and based on the implication that we are looking for something easy, it's a "set", a one shot-deal so to speak, at a reasonable price. Oh, and eD tech support is excellent. We don't have him running around trying to match impedance, wattage, efficiency, we're not mentioning crossover points and airspace and whatnot.



If we want to get more complex, I'd start with the generalization that a mediocre sub and amp will sound good in a proper enclosure. If you want to be heard "from a lil bit away", then face the subs towards the back of the car. Even two decent 10's in this configuration with a moderate amount of power should move enough air and cause enough vibrations to meet or exceed what KB-2 is looking for.



Since there was no actual mention of sound quality, we won't discuss it at this time.



Now, to keep you happy, let's find one or two of those misconceptions.



A cap is a solution to a specific problem...it's been a while and I can't recall the technical name at this time, but it is essentially when the alternator can't provide current quickly enough, and you have a momentary dip in voltage. Many people randomly say to "put a cap in", which is attempting to solve a problem that may not even exist.



While we're at it, let's move to the battery. A bigger battery isn't the solution to a high current draw unless you like (or need) to play the system and draw that current while the car is off.



Before all these measures to problems that may or may not exist are implemented, it may be better to focus on the setup - a reasonable one that won't draw too much current in the first place. Get that installed, then determine if there is a problem, and if so how to fix it.