JL Audio W7 Options

[KB-2]

okay....so ive been thinking alot...and i really want to get Jl audio subs.

i want to get W7.

now im either gonan get

three 10's
or
two 12's

they will be w7's

and i have yet to decide what amp to get.

my only question is how hard will three 10's actully pound?

i want to be able to atleast pound a little....like so you cna hear me coming from a lil bit away.

i know the 12's will be much louder and pound more, but i really want to get that tight clean punchy bass


so any feedback would be great!

[pittfirefighter]

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_i...ts_id=130\

Get this wiring kit, it's all tsunami wires, this will work just fine

As for subs and amps, just get what i said before, yes one nine.1 will be just fine, it can power both subs at 2ohms, just make sure you get the dual 2 ohm version of the sub

Only part of the system i'm not sure about is the box you found... it will sound good and the vented will hit harder than non-vented but just check out the size specs, it should fit in the celica but i don't have a celica or tape measure on had

ok time to clarify a few things since everyone seems to be learning a great deal from this post...

A cap is a solution to a specific problem...it's been a while and I can't recall the technical name at this time, but it is essentially when the alternator can't provide current quickly enough, and you have a momentary dip in voltage. Many people randomly say to "put a cap in", which is attempting to solve a problem that may not even exist.

A capacitor should be put in anytime the voltage draw per sub exceeds 600 watts, it easily draws enough power at this amount to damage both your battery and alternator... which brings me to my next point....

While we're at it, let's move to the battery. A bigger battery isn't the solution to a high current draw unless you like (or need) to play the system and draw that current while the car is off.

WRONG! The battery has everything to do with the car being ON and off. When your lights dim from a hard hit, the current comes from the battery not the alternator, the alternator then tries to replace this current which it usually can't do fast enough which is why your lights dim, NOW... there was no mention of a BIGGER battery... there was however mention of an optima yellow top deep cycle battery... DEEP CYCLE... it means its an actual battery compared to stock batteries... which are more like caps... quick discharge and then no power until recharged

but back to the relevance of this information on this post...
A. these two were talked about when drawing 2000watts with the JL subs
B. at two ohms... you might need a capacitor in the celica... and i'm saying this for one reason only... if you push your brakes at night... your lights dim its only a 70 amp alternator.... but one good point from that ridiculous post earlier... get the system first, and then see if you need the cap

you should have all the links now to all the equipment you need.... remember DUAL 2OHM, and check those box specs to see if it will fit

[applejax]

A capacitor should be put in anytime the voltage draw per sub exceeds 600 watts,

Yeah? That's a pretty specific number. Care to explain where it came from? Please also clarify where this fluctuation in "voltage draw" is coming from.

WRONG! The battery has everything to do with the car being ON and off. When your lights dim from a hard hit, the current comes from the battery not the alternator, the alternator then tries to replace this current which it usually can't do fast enough which is why your lights dim, NOW... there was no mention of a BIGGER battery... there was however mention of an optima yellow top deep cycle battery... DEEP CYCLE... it means its an actual battery compared to stock batteries... which are more like caps... quick discharge and then no power until recharged

Ummm...no. The battery is to start the car and provide power when the car is off. When running, the alternator switches between charging the battery and operating the accessories in your car. Sure, if you want to run high current draws with the engine off, then you need another battery - and be sure to isolate it so that it doesn't kill your starting battery.



If your car cannot provide sufficient current, then the voltage drops. That's why your lights dim. If the lights dim continually while the system is playing, you need more current. That means a bigger alternator or upgraded charging system, not a battery.