new cold start injector time switch, didn't fix problem Options

[brianforster]

so i got a new CSI time switch from ebay, the 20020 one the art bought also, worked for him. Well i installed it today and it didnt fire up first try, it started, stalled, then started up.

I know that the switch just grounds the circuit and that tells the cold start injector to fire, so is there a way i can remove the switch from the equation to see if it is my cold start switch? I assume just grounding out the correct wire will do it, but I am not sure which one it is.. I have red and green going to that plug, but since the wires might differ in color it might be easier to say which it is on the plug, since the plug is keyed you can say right or left.

i know that when you take out the sensor coolant should go everywhere, but mine barely leaked at all, i think i may be low on coolant, could this have an effect? since in theory the switch just takes a temperature reading of the coolant but if none of the coolant is on it its getting a false temp? i dont know though, i feel as though even air would be cool enough to tell the cold start to fire, seeing as i even have this problem in the summer im beginning to think that it is something else? but i guess there really isnt anything other than the cold start time switch or the cold start injector that could cause this.

anyways, input is appreciated as always.

-brian

[lagos]

COLD START INJECTOR
Toyota uses a cold start injector on most applications to squirt extra fuel into the manifold when a cold engine is first started. The "on time" of the injector is controlled by a start injector time switch and the computer. The number of seconds the cold start injector is energized (typically 2 to 8 seconds) is limited by a heater circuit inside the timer, that has two coils. A bimetallic switch inside the timer is normally closed so, when the engine is started, current flows through the cold start injector solenoid and both heater coils inside the timer. Within a few seconds, the heater coils trip the bimetallic switch causing it to open and turn off the cold start injector.

If the timer fails, the cold start injector will never come on and the engine may be hard to start when cold. The circuit can be checked by using a voltmeter to test for voltage at the cold start injector when the ignition is turned on. You should also check the resistance across the injector’s terminals to check for an open or shorted solenoid. A good cold injector should read 2 to 4 ohms.

On most TCCS engines, an alternate ground may be supplied to the cold start injector by the computer at the STJ terminal. Using inputs from the engine’s coolant temperature sensor, the computer can operate the cold start injector for up to three seconds regardless of the status of the timer switch. The maximum coolant temperature at which the computer will cycle on the cold start injector is 113°F. Above that temperature, the injector will not be energized by either the timer switch or computer.

Sometimes a cold start injector will hang open and leak fuel. The dribble may not seem like much but it may be enough to upset the air/fuel ratio and cause an increase in idle roughness and emissions. The cold start injector can be checked for leaks by removing it and pressurizing the fuel system.