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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 31, '04 From Summerville, SC Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
Stock exhaust we're replacing...
![]() ![]() AngryMike fitting up the new stainless steel custom 3" mandrel bent tig-welded exhaust.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Custom tig-welded aluminum intercooler piping with welded-in flange for the Blitz BOV... ![]() ![]() Working my magic with what that shop left of his wiring harness.... ![]() ![]() More to come soon!!! ![]() This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Mar 19, 2007 - 4:09 PM -------------------- -Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaire Click here to see my swaps drtweak@phoenixtuning.com |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 4, '06 From Ohio Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) ![]() |
I know this is your opinion and you are entitled to that. But I disagree with most of that method. They dont say anything about the bearings. Just rings!
Heres what Ive always done with brand new engines or overhauled engines: If you are getting a japan engine it doesnt matter, its already broken in. I always vary my speed and press on and off the gas constantly. Never go over 1/2 of redline until after 500 miles. Then progress slowly up to redline. At 500 miles I change the oil and filter. Ive never had any problems. Just my opinion. As I said everyone is entitled to that. Later all! -toyotacrazy ![]() |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: September 20th, 2025 - 6:27 PM |