Engine Keeps Cutting Off, pissed off & broke Options

[Jen]

I've had a problem with my car for the past month, and nothing we have had done seems to work.

The problem:
- Very low, and rough idle.
- Stalling.
- The engine cuts out no matter if I am stopped at a redlight, or if I am accelerating.

It can be fine one day, but terrible the next. If it cuts off, I can wait a few minutes and it comes back on. If I let it sit for 30+ minutes, it will work for the rest of the day and possibly the next. When it cuts off it's very random, and it forces me to not go to work, or I am late to work. I'm about to lose my job.

Things I have had done:
- I've had the injectors cleaned or something.
- New fuel pump.
- Replaced PVC Valve.
- Replaced IAC Valve.

Things it's not:
- The battery, or connections.
- The alternator, or connections.

Now they're telling me the distributer. Any other ideas? Discuss.

I totally put this in the wrong section, could one of the mods please move it?

This post has been edited by Jen: Apr 28, 2007 - 4:31 PM

[alltracman78]

not working still. i told you that the engine code thing didn't work. i've been carless for over a month now. i hate this.

You need to read a little better as well.
I'm not talking about the regular jumping TE1 and E1.
This is a DIFFERENT diagnostic mode. Go back and carefully read what I said.
I can't promise that out of all the techs that looked at your car none of them tried what I'm telling you, but I do know it's not a commonly know procedure.
Even at a dealership.

You don't even need a tech to do this, you can do it yourself.
All you need to do is take a paper clip, jump 2 connectors, and run the car [I guess that would be the hard part]. Once you get a code [if you get any] we can go from there.

This is an OBDI thing, and only went for 4 years on certain cars.

I also can't promise it will solve your problem, but it is a better way to look at it.

Also, has anyone looked at the ECU itself?
If you are having all these different codes, it is a possibility.

my B/F said, if you have replaced all the parts in the list... he would say its most likely some thing with your timeing, meaning crank position sensor, cam position sensor...

Your super car wizzzzz boyfriend needs to learn a bit more.
There is no crank position sensor on her engine, just as I've already stated.
She has a 95.
96 and newer have the crank position sensor.

Also, her dist has already been replaced.
Which houses the cam position sensor.

In addition to this, if her timing was off it's rather unlikely it would intermittently start, and intermittently run good and bad.
It should either not run or run like poo.