Need a little help, few 5sfte questions Options

[1bwilson]

Okay, some of you may know me and some of you might know of me threw the "Big 5sfte post". Well in actuallity I never actually got the chance to finnish my boost project. Long story short I ran into alot of issues with bad shops doing terrible work causing huge failures on my car during the prep phase. It caused me to do a total ground up rebuild of the block, CP forged pistons, 3sgte rods, ARP head studs, P&P'd head 98' metal head gasket. After it was all said and done between the ruined parts and rebuild I spent the better part of 18 months and over $5k on my motor alone and lost all interest in my car and the project.

Since then in the past 2-3 years of being mia from this site the car has sat most of that time. Ive driven it a total of about 7k miles. The good news is the build is rock solid and Ive gained motovation to build the celica up once again. Also its now just a toy rather then a daily driver so now theres really nothing in the way of this car getting boost. Ive actually already started putting it back togather. I just need a few clarifications as I am very rusty.

Oil lines and relocation, does anyone have any pictures of how they ran both or either. Im using the same earls fitting Manny used and was planning to have the oil filter somewhere near the windshield washer refill tank. Anyone else go this route, if now what would you recomend? Lines, my origional oil lines are the exact lines Nuke used on his first 5sfte (if anyone remembers Nuke from back on the c.net boards), their old and very ghetto rigged <3 Nuke if he reads this . Id like to get the -3an flange welded on and plan to do so. How long of a line is everyone using and what fittings did you need to use to get the best path around the turbo. Any pictures would be great.

Last but never least, I hear the MSD BTM trick isnt that great of a fix, what are the issues? Any fixes out there that I havent seen yet, or is there just no way around a piggy back? If I have to go piggyback once its running im really not upset as id like to make this build a 1 time shot anyway and get it all right the first try. Any good piggybacks out there with a good wideband O2 sensor? If not any good O2's anyone would suggest?

Sorry for all the questions. Some things Ive found 2/3's of the answer for threwout conversations Ive researched but no real set things. Once I get a good idea of where I want to head with all of these things I should have a straight install. Taking off the week of 9/8-9/16 to get all the major labor done so Id like to have it all figured out and here before then.

Thanks guys

This post has been edited by 1bwilson: Aug 31, 2007 - 6:28 PM

[presure2]

Okay, some of you may know me and some of you might know of me threw the "Big 5sfte post". Well in actuallity I never actually got the chance to finnish my boost project. Long story short I ran into alot of issues with bad shops doing terrible work causing huge failures on my car during the prep phase. It caused me to do a total ground up rebuild of the block, CP forged pistons, 3sgte rods, ARP head studs, P&P'd head 98' metal head gasket. After it was all said and done between the ruined parts and rebuild I spent the better part of 18 months and over $5k on my motor alone and lost all interest in my car and the project.

Since then in the past 2-3 years of being mia from this site the car has sat most of that time. Ive driven it a total of about 7k miles. The good news is the build is rock solid and Ive gained motovation to build the celica up once again. Also its now just a toy rather then a daily driver so now theres really nothing in the way of this car getting boost. Ive actually already started putting it back togather. I just need a few clarifications as I am very rusty.

Oil lines and relocation, does anyone have any pictures of how they ran both or either. Im using the same earls fitting Manny used and was planning to have the oil filter somewhere near the windshield washer refill tank. Anyone else go this route, if now what would you recomend? Lines, my origional oil lines are the exact lines Nuke used on his first 5sfte (if anyone remembers Nuke from back on the c.net boards), their old and very ghetto rigged <3 Nuke if he reads this . Id like to get the -3an flange welded on and plan to do so. How long of a line is everyone using and what fittings did you need to use to get the best path around the turbo. Any pictures would be great.

Last but never least, I hear the MSD BTM trick isnt that great of a fix, what are the issues? Any fixes out there that I havent seen yet, or is there just no way around a piggy back? If I have to go piggyback once its running im really not upset as id like to make this build a 1 time shot anyway and get it all right the first try. Any good piggybacks out there with a good wideband O2 sensor? If not any good O2's anyone would suggest?

Sorry for all the questions. Some things Ive found 2/3's of the answer for threwout conversations Ive researched but no real set things. Once I get a good idea of where I want to head with all of these things I should have a straight install. Taking off the week of 9/8-9/16 to get all the major labor done so Id like to have it all figured out and here before then.

Thanks guys

brian, for the feed line, you need to make your buy a premade 3an line, with a 90* end, and a straight end. ~18" long.
the tuner toys fitting for the head, and the 3an steel fitting welded onto the stock oil feed line. give me a couple days, ill put a couple pics of my setup up.
the return line is 100% stock 3sgte (using a 3sgte oil pan.)
for tuning, just the SAFCII will work, somthing like the emanage or emanage ultimate will give you alot more tunability in the midrange and lo throttle sections, which makes for better daily driving, and better gas milage.
there are a bunch of companys that make decently priced widebands out there now, just a matter of what features you want ect.
i believe there was a post about a "wideband shootout" comparing diffrent brands, IIRC the innovative got the highest score.

dont use just any line for the oil lines. trust me, its just asking for trouble.
for the oil filter relocation, use the canton racing oil filter adapter (3/4 16 thread) from www.canton racing.com with 1/2npt to 10an male fittings, and 10an lines. use whatever oil filter holder you want.
if you want to incorperate your oil cooler in the setup, you will need to have the oil relief valve bolt cut back about 1/2-3/4 of an inch, and threaded down the same amount.
ill post a few pics of a install im doing now for shannon and jim here soon.