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[Steevo]

Anyone have any sugestions. My plan is as follows for my poor little 7AFE it is blowing oil out everwhere and the valve seals are leaking.



Get some 4GZE rods, and crank (used). A set of oversize pistons, have this block bored to the 82.5mm with 9.1:1 comp pistons. Turbo kit it, they have garret kits for the 7AFE that fit corrolas, and a ebay intercooler. SAFC2 port the head and intake some. 2" cat back exhaust, aftermarket cat.



I have found cheap engine kits, I know a company that can do thermal coatings, for valves and the pistons. A machine shop around here will do my boring and piston-crank-rod balancing. A toyota dealer has the tool to do the valve shimming, and will rent it out. And a friend has a exhaust shop, and can either do crush bends or will have mandrell bent pieces made, and weld them up, stainless.



So far I have come up with about $3,400.00 ish for everything minus the crank, and rods. But I have no idea where to get them, or if they truly will work. Talking with another gear head on the west coast he used the same setup to get better rods for cheaper than aftermarket, and a better TDC duration for close timing under boost.


Any help is very much appriciated.

[Steevo]

The mains are the same diamater, and on the big pin forged crank everything else should line up.


I have found the dimentions on the rods, crank offset, and the wrist pin, but I now need to call the company who is making the pistons and see what the wrist pin to top of piston clearnace is, and what stock is, so I can get a deck height idea. I want to know how where the piston will be in relation to the top of the block. If need be I can have the block machined, and the head, to close the gap, but if I can do the same with a set of higher compression pistons and still end up at the compression ratio I want I will go the route.



But for now I have to get it running again. Saturday after work it would not start. I have checked the plugs for fouling as it is burning some oil form valve leakage, nothing there. Checked to be sure the cambelt is turning, it is. Checked the ignition system as per a haynes manual on specs, and the coil came up about twice the resistance 1.5 ohm on the primary side that the book shows (.4-.7). but a new one from Napa measures the same. With two different meters.


I have tried a bit of gas in the intake, and some brake cleaner that I can start other engines off. Nada. The pickup coils are in spec. The plug wires are new. So I have no idea.....