prototype sway bar links, custom sway bar end links Options

[97GTinKC]

http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/81f6d5b0_m4...h2w_ICBgXOT26H0

Got my prototype end links done, installed the right side only to see how/if I notice any difference or problems, I will bring them to the KC celica meet next Sat...



Bad news is I haven't found a reasonable supplier, still going to be around $150 /pair. (but that is better than the 1st supplier, they wanted approx $75 PER END = 600/car? )


Had them on a year, still tight,,, still too expensive,,,

This post has been edited by 97GTinKC: Mar 1, 2005 - 12:07 AM

[97GTinKC]

I'm not sure what the ST looks like in the rear, but these are what hooks the sway bar to the strut/control arm on the GT, the pic is of the front ones, the rear are the same thing, only longer, approx 105MM center-center and the front are only 60MM center-center. they are bolted on with 10MM bolts and nuts, no Allen. I originally started this as an alternative to the Toyota ones as someone on here reported they wanted $75 per side, at first I thought the OE ones were the molded rubber like Mazda and some others use, these would have been an improvement over those. But since the OE Toyota ones are actually a steel ball and socket design, (at least on the GT, not sure about ST).

Anyone wanting to do this themselves could go the SAE route and do it a lot cheaper, rather than drill out the sway bar, I would find a shouldered bolt that fit the 10MM metric hole and had 3/8 SAE threaded part, I know aircraft suppliers have these as I have some around, they would most likely be anodized. the front is a male and female end screwed together (you will need to cut approx 1/4 inch off both to get them short enough for the front. the rear would need 2 female thread ends with some threaded rod between them, a short SAE thread stud from a parts house would work fine,
Or for the rear you could use male ends with an internally threaded shaft between them (my preferred route, as less threads exposed to corrode, finding or making the shaft would be the hard part, just some kind of internally threaded bushing approx 1.5 inches long should work. )
If you chose to drill out to next SAE size, it would be 7/16 SAE.

I am not going to pursue this any further, I will see how long this set lasts and post then.

This post has been edited by 97GTinKC: Oct 11, 2003 - 1:07 PM