Finished my project, but a few issues. Options

[bccentaur3]

So, I took the car out on test drive to see how it would run and to get my exhaust done. I know I wasnt supposed to hit boost, so I tried to keep it down. Well after shifting is my bov suppose to go off? Even if I dont hit boost? So after this, hoping I didnt hit boost, because my boost gauge didnt even go into boost. So am I okay? Well any way my car started smoking so I checked under the car and I sprung a leak with the coolant lines. I'll have to redo the lines tomorrow, but Im just a little worried I messed it up.

This post has been edited by bccentaur3: Mar 13, 2008 - 8:49 PM

[6strngs]

it tells me that cylinder 2 is gone and cylinder 3 is pretty much toast too. you should also do a wet compression test. basically you put a little bit of oil (my automotive book for school says about a 1/2 ounce) through the spark plug hole onto the top of the piston and do the compression check again. if the number goes up it means the problem is the cylinder rings, and if the number stays the same it means the head gasket or a valve is burnt.

btw, if you've never done a compression check before and have never been taught to do it correctly, you've got to crank the cylinders the same number of times... meaning when you're cranking for cylinder 1 you hear the engine go DAH-da-da-da-DAH-da-da-da... etc. the higher pitched one is the cylinder you are checking and when doing the test. You've gotta make sure you crank each cylinder either 4 or 5 times (as long as you do the same number for every cylinder) because if you crank one cylinder 5 times and the next only 3, obviously the numbers will be low.

If you already knew all that then I apologize, I just want to make sure you're getting accurate numbers before you spend all the time and money rebuilding the engine.

where do you get these commpresion checks done?

any automotive service shop will do it, or, you can buy a compression tester at any auto parts store for $20-30. If you can change your own spark plugs, you can check your compression, you just need a friend to help you.

[bccentaur3]

it tells me that cylinder 2 is gone and cylinder 3 is pretty much toast too. you should also do a wet compression test. basically you put a little bit of oil (my automotive book for school says about a 1/2 ounce) through the spark plug hole onto the top of the piston and do the compression check again. if the number goes up it means the problem is the cylinder rings, and if the number stays the same it means the head gasket or a valve is burnt.

btw, if you've never done a compression check before and have never been taught to do it correctly, you've got to crank the cylinders the same number of times... meaning when you're cranking for cylinder 1 you hear the engine go DAH-da-da-da-DAH-da-da-da... etc. the higher pitched one is the cylinder you are checking and when doing the test. You've gotta make sure you crank each cylinder either 4 or 5 times (as long as you do the same number for every cylinder) because if you crank one cylinder 5 times and the next only 3, obviously the numbers will be low.

If you already knew all that then I apologize, I just want to make sure you're getting accurate numbers before you spend all the time and money rebuilding the engine.

where do you get these commpresion checks done?

any automotive service shop will do it, or, you can buy a compression tester at any auto parts store for $20-30. If you can change your own spark plugs, you can check your compression, you just need a friend to help you.

Thanks, but I already know how to do the compression test. I just ran out of day light to do the wet test. Will do it tomorrow, but I already have plans for my motor. I think I'm just going to take my motor out and take it to a shop and have them inspect it. My plans for right now is to use some forged pistons on my factory rods and get some head work done. So basically the only things that are being upgraded is the froged pistons and regrind cams. I think I can get my head ported and poilished for a good deal. I'm expecting a call from the shop today.

[presure2]

it tells me that cylinder 2 is gone and cylinder 3 is pretty much toast too. you should also do a wet compression test. basically you put a little bit of oil (my automotive book for school says about a 1/2 ounce) through the spark plug hole onto the top of the piston and do the compression check again. if the number goes up it means the problem is the cylinder rings, and if the number stays the same it means the head gasket or a valve is burnt.

btw, if you've never done a compression check before and have never been taught to do it correctly, you've got to crank the cylinders the same number of times... meaning when you're cranking for cylinder 1 you hear the engine go DAH-da-da-da-DAH-da-da-da... etc. the higher pitched one is the cylinder you are checking and when doing the test. You've gotta make sure you crank each cylinder either 4 or 5 times (as long as you do the same number for every cylinder) because if you crank one cylinder 5 times and the next only 3, obviously the numbers will be low.

If you already knew all that then I apologize, I just want to make sure you're getting accurate numbers before you spend all the time and money rebuilding the engine.

where do you get these commpresion checks done?

any automotive service shop will do it, or, you can buy a compression tester at any auto parts store for $20-30. If you can change your own spark plugs, you can check your compression, you just need a friend to help you.

Thanks, but I already know how to do the compression test. I just ran out of day light to do the wet test. Will do it tomorrow, but I already have plans for my motor. I think I'm just going to take my motor out and take it to a shop and have them inspect it. My plans for right now is to use some forged pistons on my factory rods and get some head work done. So basically the only things that are being upgraded is the froged pistons and regrind cams. I think I can get my head ported and poilished for a good deal. I'm expecting a call from the shop today.

i would source a set of 3s rods, and have the 5s crank machined to accept them.
the weak point on the 5s rods is the bolts, which ARP does not have an application for.