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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Oct 2, '07 From Manitoba, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) ![]() |
so the thing the caliper mounting bolt screws into is supposed to slide in and out, correct?
![]() Because one of them slides but the other one is stuck so i can't slide the caliper over the new brake pads because this piece won't slide in Help Please This post has been edited by Promasta: Aug 6, 2008 - 11:14 PM |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Oct 2, '07 From Manitoba, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) ![]() |
wow i'm confused.
the caliper is fine, the piston compressed with no problems. the things the caliper bolts into should move in and out freely so the caliper can fit over the new brake pads. but one is stuck. i am talking about on the bracket, not on the caliper. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) ![]() |
wow i'm confused. the caliper is fine, the piston compressed with no problems. the things the caliper bolts into should move in and out freely so the caliper can fit over the new brake pads. but one is stuck. i am talking about on the bracket, not on the caliper. Now I'm confused. The bolt you're referring to in your picture is the caliper bolt and has nothing to do with holding it onto the backing plate. Granted, it should unscrew, and if it doesn't, it may be that your caliper is seized. However, unless your caliper is seized in a closed position, you don't need to unbolt the bolt you're referring to in the picture. There are two 14mm bolts that hold the caliper in place to the backing plate - one is to the right of where the caliper is, almost directly in line with the axle. The other is at the bottom of the bracket, just below the caliper itself and toward the center of the wheel a bit. You should be able to remove the caliper just fine without removing the caliper bolt, at which point it'll not only be easier to see if the caliper is seized, but if you remove the caliper all together, it'll be a LOT easier to remove that caliper bolt if necessary. PB blaster is your friend, too. You might soak that caliper bolt in PB Blaster for a few minutes if you can't get the bolt out. I rebuilt my entire caliper basically using PB Blaster, a ball-peen hammer, and a pointy metal thing. Lots of corrosion inside that chamber where the bolt goes through. Works great now. -------------------- ![]() |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 2, '07 From Great Western Plateau Currently Offline Reputation: 9 (100%) ![]() |
The front capliers have two 17mm bolts that hold them tightly to the steering knuckle. The rears have 14mm bolts.
If you cant remove those bolts you're talking about, try to remove the whole capliper then it should be easier to change the pads. This post has been edited by lubu: Aug 7, 2008 - 1:31 PM -------------------- ![]() 98% completion --- aaRon |
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