parts-a-paintin' - yikes 56k - courtesy of paintscratch.com, gang's jail spoiler preview pics pg2 Options

[purplegt4]

Budget balla presents: DIY Painting.

Take in mind, this is my first time AND it's with spray paint: gimme a break.

primered pieces:








My supplies


bondo/hardener, adhesive, primer, color, clear coat


new wing


what happens when you don't fill cracks


like these.


already have been filled though


maybe i shoul've bondo'd more


light coats



some close-ups




up close and personal


more to come.

More sanding, sanding, SANDING!

This post has been edited by purplegt4: Apr 20, 2008 - 1:51 PM

[b1gr3d]

first i will say that this is one of the nicest rattle can jobs that i have seen! GJ

i am going to try to answer some questions that were asked earlier though-
Every high end paint job and most lower ends are sanded after clear coat. its like leveling out land, there are high spots and low spots but you want it all the same level, so you take down the highs to get them as close to the low as possible-the highs and lows are the orange peel. then when you buff it helps heat up the clear coat to sorta of melt and close up the fine scratches left from the paper. be careful though because you can burn through the clear and paint if you get it too hot or do it too soon after drying

spray can primer CAN be as goos as regular "pro" primer and in fact you can get the same stuff that the pros use in rattle form-dupont- as far as the thickness...as long as the underlying layer is covered..stop. they make spray filler and high build primer so i dont think that rattle can will get much thicker if at all...in any case the primer needs to be sanded anyway to take away any orange peel from it so you have less transfer though to the color and clear, also to get rid of any waves, so even if it IS thicker you will reduce the mill thickness substantially by sanding..sorry if i hijacked, but i feel that there is alot of fog surrounding painting techniques and practices