wrc st205, Dyno sheets PG 11 :) 342whp 336ft/lbs Options

[supershannon77]

You all may or may not no about the history of the blue 3sgte that I bought...Well I now have the black 5sfte and my boyfriend Jim and his brother joey are working on re swapping the blue car with the st205...well instead they bought a wrc st205..The process has just started and its going very smoothly..presure2 and alltracman98 are standing by to help work on the car and help us out since they are the brains to the celica. Pics below with more to come as the process continues.















What do you all think? Ill be taking new pics very soon bc these were snapped quick the day we got the engine.

This post has been edited by supershannon77: Jun 26, 2009 - 6:40 AM

[_Jim_]

What did your research uncover about the standard ST205 and the WRC ST205, Jim?

The WRC and the standard ST205 are identical in almost every way except for the fact the WRC has a lot more goodies on it. A WRC came with factory water injection, factory intercooler/heat exchanger sprayer, Antilag system, heat "protection" piece between the header and the TMIC, the hood comes stock with the hood spoiler. The Water injection, intercooler/heat exchanger sprayer, and the anti lag system all come inactive in the street version of the WRC, and only the race car had the ECU to control all of these features. But that doesn't mean we cant get them to work .

The factory water/meth injection nozzle (which looks like a GEN2 Cold Start Injector) comes Installed into the bottom of the throttle body on the WRC edition, which is going be a big help in getting my devils own kit to work on the GEN3. Manny will get a better look at it when he has the motor up there. The problem with the standard ST205 is that when trying to install the nozzle of the devils own kit, you need to install it between the intercooler and the throttle body. The problem here is that the only place to install the nozzle is about 2 inches long and is made of rubber so installing there is not an option. For my setup, with the WRC already having the CSI I have a couple of options. We can try to gut the electronics and drill out the holes of the CSI to the same size holes the devils own claims is X gph (for example 1/8" hole = 5gph's etc). Or option 2 is to completely take the CSI out, as Manny mentioned and cut a 3/8 think flange out of aluminum and drill out the 2 bolt holes and tap in the nozzle that comes with the Devils Own kit and installing it all back together with a GEN2 CSI gasket. Option 2 sounds a bit better because it will be a lot easier to change nozzles when the time comes, instead of taking out the CSI and drilling bigger holes.


The factory intercooler/heat exchanger sprayer also comes inactive on the WRC street car, but I should be able to get around that as well with very little work. The intercooler/heat exchanger sprayer is mounted on the inside of the JDM crash bar, it comes with 3 nozzles pointed at the heat exchanger all on a continuous line that runs to the window washer tank. You cant believe the amount of stuff that is on the WRC window washer fluid tank, it has more wires, pumps, hoses, etc. I believe I read somewhere that the pump for the intercooler/heat exchanger sprayer is a working pump (which also supplies fluid for the water/meth injection), and all that is required to get it working is to wire it in. Well I couldn't find information on when it comes on, how long it sprayers for, or even if it does spray with out a switch. All that I read was that it could be wired in, but made no mention of to control the spray. Realistically I will only need the intercooler/heat exchanger sprayer to work when I am at WOT and wanting to cool the intake charge as much as possible. So based on the lack of information on the factory pump, I will install a new pump in place of the factory pump and connect all the factory lines that go the intercooler/heat exchanger sprayer to the new pump. As for wiring I will tap the power source for the pump to the wire off the Devils Own kit that sends power to the water injection pump so that way I only use the intercooler/heat exchanger sprayer when needed at WOT. So basically when the water injection starts spaying at 11psi, so will the intercooler/heat exchanger sprayer.

As far as the antilag system goes, I am not going to fool around with that for now because I really don't have a need for it. The pea shooter ct20b spools plenty fast on its own and doesn't need any help. I have some ideas for the antilag, but they aren't going to come into play until I am ready to upgrade to a bigger turbo. And no not all all antilag systems will destory turbos. Many EVO's use antilag and hold up just fine turbo/motor. I will do more research on this to see what makes the EVO antilag system less harsh compared to other systems. I obviously cannot use the antilag system like the WRC race car had, but with the plumbing in place, I do have a few options. Just need time, and a bigger turbo to make it all worth considering. In due time.

This post has been edited by _Jim_: Sep 22, 2008 - 7:51 PM