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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jun 21, '08 From Naples, FL Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I know it's an elementary question, but I just need some opinions. I've put around 4000 miles on her and I'd like to keep everything as spry as possible, so therefore I'm going to have the oil changed regularly. How many of you do it on your own, and how easy is it to do? I'm guessing I won't need more than a catch pan and a couple tools.
Also, I know it's not "totally" necessary to do this a lot, but it's not abnormal to change it every 3000 miles, even if the oil light hasn't come on yet? |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 18, '05 From Calgary Currently Offline Reputation: 20 (100%) ![]() |
doesn't it say on your oil cap what oil type you should use? mine says 10w-30, what about yours?
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jun 29, '03 From 캘리포니아 Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) ![]() |
doesn't it say on your oil cap what oil type you should use? mine says 10w-30, what about yours? Yeah it should be printed onto the stock oil cap. Mine says 10w-30 too. And a metal pole or attachment added to a ratchet for leverage is called a "cheater bar". A breaker bar is an actual tool that is just a longer non ratcheting version used to "break" loose harder to get bolts. You should not need to apply that much torque onto a drain plug bolt. If you need a breaker bar to remove it, it's either on too tight, or you are just very weak (that's not directed towards you personally haha, it's just another possibility for needing to use such a tool). It doesn't take a lot of torque to strip the threads to the oil pan, so when you tighten it, just tighten it with enough force where the washer is sealed and you know it won't leak. This post has been edited by MaskedMan: Nov 1, 2008 - 11:55 PM -------------------- |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: July 18th, 2025 - 11:55 PM |