Subwoofer durability? Options

[FreddyTheOthaMea...]

So I dont know if its just bad sales reps selling me whatever they want or whatever but it seems like i rip thru subwoofers really fast (either the VC blows or with my infinity subwoofers the wire that connects to the spider on the cone actually physically seperates) what would yall suggest for a 1000 watt (MAX) amp (kenwood excelon) ? I was rockin 2 12" eclipse titanium subs that just blew after about a year and a half of use/abuse which is the longest ive ever made any subs last. they would usually blow after a couple of weeks and then the sales rep would act like i went out of my way to destroy it when i would try to get it replaced.

[Daftboy]

I have had my JL's in a few cars now....they are powered to the proper level and have lasted me awhile. Don't worry about the max watts worry about the RMS of each sub..mine are think 150 RMS each. I have them bridged together so 300 RMS max. I bought a amp that max's out at 350 RMS so I just ajust the amp to 7/8 up , maybe less..try to keep the bass boast knob down as well...You can read on the sub specs they also haea tolarce level.. which you should try to match on the amp.

This post has been edited by Daftboy: Nov 19, 2008 - 10:10 AM

[DEATH]

I have had my JL's in a few cars now....they are powered to the proper level and have lasted me awhile. Don't worry about the max watts worry about the RMS of each sub..mine are think 150 RMS each. I have them bridged together so 300 RMS max. I bought a amp that max's out at 350 RMS so I just ajust the amp to 7/8 up , maybe less..try to keep the bass boast knob down as well...You can read on the sub specs they also haea tolarce level.. which you should try to match on the amp.

Same thing I said - obviously this is a good recipe for durability. Not getting greedy with the bass knob is another good point. Most of the time good quality subs blow due to user error