Need Diagnosis..., Front end suspension area is vibrating while driving.. Options

[Betta-J]

So, lately I've noticed that on the highway my front area of the car vibrates. I am sure it's between the two front tires or at those locations b/c it vibrates up there. It's very sporadic and I can't tell when it will happen again. I have checked my tie rods (don't know if I can tell if they are broke or not, but physical damages or cracks I can't see), I don't think it's my wheel bearings, and my stabilzer bar looks to be in tact. I have also checked my CV rods/CV boots and don't see any physical damage (again, don't know for sure). I took my wheels off and put them back on to see if I didn't tighten them or something. I can't find anything wrong.

These are the times it starts up:
-when decelerating from 70mph (just letting go of the pedal)
-when I'm going down hills on the highway (I had cruise control on, but it's like the above--maintains speed)
-when I accelerate quickly from 70-75/80mph
-at higher speeds (at 5th gear)

Any help would be appreciated. If you can PM me that would be great too.

Is this a symptom that Celica's have? I figured the 99 wouldn't have any problems. (if anyone knows a site that lists all of the known things that go wrong with the 6GC, I would appreciate that too)

Thanks.

[Betta-J]

Ok, here's the scoop and details on how I completed my CV Axle project.

Steps (for my car, which is a Japan made 99 MT Celica GT w/ABS Driver's Side/LH CV Axle):
1. Loosen the car wheel (should be 5 bolts), but keep them all on.
2. Loosen the CV axel nut--you can do this by taking the cotter pin and washer out first; use a 30mm/deep socket and a socket wrench. Don't use the skinny socket wrenches that you get in those home sets b/c that'll prolly break it. Buy one that's about $17 and big (socket ends are bigger size) and use bar to slip over the wrench to get more leverage---you really don't need much as it shouldn't be too tight. Again, just loosen the nut.
3. Lift the car up on jack stands.
4. Take wheels and cv nut out. Also takt the control arm's nuts (2) and bolt (1) out and lift wheel/disk assembly up and out of the control arm.
5. Take the Tie Rod ends off the wheel assembly by taking out the cotter pin on that tie rod end nut, then unscrew the nut. You can use a pickle fork and wedge it in, but most of the time you can hammer the side assembly of the tie rod (NOT ON THE TIE ROD END) and it should come out. (I skipped this step as it was not in the way...I just turned my handle in directions so that I could slip the axle out).
6. Us a hammer to knock out the CV from the wheel/disk assembly. You can use a brass punch or a piece of wood...truthfully, I was gonna throw my CV out anyway, so I hammered it directly. Remember to only hammer it until it loosens as once it is loose, it will slide out.
7. When you have the outer joint out (step 6), you will work on the inner joint. There is going to be a cover of some sort above the inner joint attachment. I would unscrew it and take out as it got in the way. Also, make sure you have an oil pan to collect all of the Gear Oil that will pour out once the CV axle inner joint is knocked out.
8. Take your crow bar out that you used to take you lug nuts off, use the straight end and lock it right behind the ring that covers the attached portion of the CV axle to the tranny. Make sure you have a steady position and pop it out with a coulple of sharp jerks. It really POPPED OUT. Pulling it slowly will NEVER get it out as I have tried for 3 hours. There is a snap ring on the end of the inner joint and it has to be a quick punch out or it will not come out. This is the most stressing part and prolly the ONLY hard part of this whole project. If you fail at your first attempt, try and try again as the quick pop out is very easy. When you do this one, you'll probably know how to do other inner joints on any car...
9. Once you get the inner joint out (congrats if you did as it was a pain), grease up your new cv axle (the gear notches, the shaft of the inner joint, and the rights around the assy (basically any point that you may see the assemblies contact)--you wanna do this for both ends. Fit the axle in the grooves properly--very important--torq them correctly and they shall slide in. Do a last hard push till the snap right snaps in..rotate and push hard again to ensure that it is in. Do this for the outer joint as well.
10. Put wheel back on (loosly tighten lug nuts on) and spin wheel to make sure you hear no grinding noises. Screw all of your nuts bolts in the reverse order you took them off. Torq the cv nut properly. Fill Gear oil to proper levels as you have prolly lost a ton.

What I have written is only the way I did it and in no way will I guarantee anything on this writeup. You are at your own risk if you takle this project like I have. On a scale of 1-10, if you know what you're doing and can somewhat do some light mechanic work, this was about a 5 (except the friggin inner joint b/c I didn't know that you have to pop it out instead of pull/push it out). For a beginner, it may be an 8, but it is possible to do even at this level.

FYI:
You cany buy a NEW CV axle at Advance Auto Parts, as that is where I had purchased mine (around like $70...there was no core charge as some people have paid for). The company for the CV axle was GSP--I don't know this too much, but it's supposed to be good. Another place to shop for these cv axles is www.toyautoparts.com. They have many OEM parts for way cheaper than dealers as they deal direct with OEM parts companies. Talk to Joe and tell him either 6GC.NET or Jeff I. has sent him. Confirm discounts, if any, with him.

Gear Oil you can buy almost anywhere, but I bought Mobile 75W90. The gear grease I bought somewhere, but you should be able to buy it anywhere too.