Weird shaking when braking Options

[reko]

Before i changed my rotors last year, my front driver side wheel used to "shake" when i was braking. My mec realized that my tie-rod end needed to be replaced, so he changed it... It's been a year now, and the wheel on the passenger side starts to shake whenever i brake pass 50 km/h... My tires are worned out and need to be replaced... but im waiting to put my springs on before i do so (+alignement)...

I feel that sometimes, my car steers a bit on the left... and a lot when braking "hard". Passenger side tire is more worned out that driver one.

Last week-end i took my car to my garage and removed the front wheels and looked for some kind of freeplay in the tie rod end (passenger side). Nothing. Ball joint seems good and so are the bushings and link kit...

Any ideas anyone? Could it be the worned tire? Or am i doing something wrong?

[Galcobar]

Unless he's been track racing it's unlikely he's managed to actually warp the cast iron of his rotors.

More likely, uneven deposition of pad material on the rotor surface accounts for the shuddering and shaking when braking. Good explanation of the issue in understandable but technically accurate language: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

The tendency for the car to pull to one side and for one tire to display greater wear suggests the car is in need of an alignment. That the tie-rod end was replaced and an alignment was not mentioned leads me to suggest getting an alignment before you burn through another set of tires.

This post has been edited by Galcobar: May 1, 2009 - 7:16 PM

[alltracman78]

Unless he's been track racing it's unlikely he's managed to actually warp the cast iron of his rotors.

More likely, uneven deposition of pad material on the rotor surface accounts for the shuddering and shaking when braking. Good explanation of the issue in understandable but technically accurate language: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

The tendency for the car to pull to one side and for one tire to display greater wear suggests the car is in need of an alignment. That the tie-rod end was replaced and an alignment was not mentioned leads me to suggest getting an alignment before you burn through another set of tires.

That article is also outdated, brake technology has come a long way.
For instance, you don't need to break in brake pads anymore.
Caroll Smith [the guy that wrote it] stopped racing modern cars sometime in the early 80's IIRC, though he did continue with vintage stuff.

Brake rotors DO warp, I've seen it in person when I resurface them.
Especially for those of you that buy cheap rotors from autocrap or places like that. They tend to be thinner and made of cheaper material, and therefor more prone to warping.

This is why reading info is only so good, actual hands on experience is essential because the book isn't always correct.

The vibration could be the rotors, it could be a problem with the caliper, could be a loose balljoint, ect.

[blu94gt]

Unless he's been track racing it's unlikely he's managed to actually warp the cast iron of his rotors.

More likely, uneven deposition of pad material on the rotor surface accounts for the shuddering and shaking when braking. Good explanation of the issue in understandable but technically accurate language: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

The tendency for the car to pull to one side and for one tire to display greater wear suggests the car is in need of an alignment. That the tie-rod end was replaced and an alignment was not mentioned leads me to suggest getting an alignment before you burn through another set of tires.

That article is also outdated, brake technology has come a long way.
For instance, you don't need to break in brake pads anymore.
Caroll Smith [the guy that wrote it] stopped racing modern cars sometime in the early 80's IIRC, though he did continue with vintage stuff.

Brake rotors DO warp, I've seen it in person when I resurface them.
Especially for those of you that buy cheap rotors from autocrap or places like that. They tend to be thinner and made of cheaper material, and therefor more prone to warping.

This is why reading info is only so good, actual hands on experience is essential because the book isn't always correct.

The vibration could be the rotors, it could be a problem with the caliper, could be a loose balljoint, ect.

Ditto on the rotors warping. I've seen brand new rotors warp within a few miles of being installed. Pays to buy quality products