ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four Options

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

hey as title says im a noob to this forum (well i signed up years ago but was too lazy to post)

ive had a few celicas, and i dont reckon ill stop there. (ST185 RC, Series 6 13b turbo RA23, widebody ST185R and the 205) currently also have a TA63 GT-TR celica as a daily.

since there is no members ride thread section i could see in a quick view i thought ide post up what ive done to my bus.
Ive had it for about 2.5 years, done all the work myself, including all fabrications, rebuild etc) umm thats about all i can think to add atm, if you have any questions feel free to post up, im open 2 all opinions

Ride:
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four, ST205 Group A Rallye #61

Built not bought


Donk:
Gen 3 3sgte.

600x300 hybrid front mount with custom (2" stainless and 2.5" ally piping)

Turbosmart supersonic BOV
Turbosmart Ultragate external wastegate with screamer pipe

6boost exhaust manifold ceramic coated
Garrett GT3082 turbo (.64 rear, .7 front)
speedflow turbo fittings
stainless braided turbo oil feed

Custom side feed inlet manifold with velocity stack runners
Modified 2zz-ge throttle body
Custom Billet aluminium oversize idler pulley
Custom aluminium oil catch can
Custom silver steel slave cylinder pushrod
Custom carbon fibre airbox
Cutsom carbon fibre CAI scoop
Custom Bronze impregnated teflon shifter bush
Custom twin pod 4\\\" intake pipe

3" m/s and stainless mandrel bent zaust, heat wrapped dump pipe, Apexi megaphone dunk 7" cannon with 4"dump tip

TRD low temp racing thermostat,
TRD high preasure radiator cap
TRD oil cap
TRD engine mounts
TRD oil filter

ARP rod bolts
ARP head studs
ARP main bolts

NPC 5 puck brass button clutch and uprated preasure plate, (good for 350kw atw)
Reco'd clutch slave and master cylinders
Stainless braided clutch line
Redline supershock proof lightweight gear oil
Stainless braided gearbox oil cooler lines
relocated geatbox oil cooler
C-One sports diff mount

New OE idler and tentioner bearings
New OE valve spring retainers
New OE valve stem seals
New OE head gasket (steel)
New OE gaskets and belts
New OE rear main seal
New OE water pump
New OE clutch fork
New OE throwout bearing
New OE oil pump
New OE flywheel bolts
New OE preasure plate bolts

NGK Super Silicone plug leads

GReddy timing belt
GReddy Profec B Spec II electronic boost controller

Apexi Power FC Pro
Apexi Pod x2

HKS adjustable cam gears
HKS 264 deg cams
HKS valve springs
HKS Twin Power CDI ignition

Walbro 550hp fuel pump

Sard DRR fuel preasure regulator and adapter
Sard fpr guage
Sard 800cc injectors

ACL Race Series pistons
ACL Race Series rings
ACL Race Series engine bearings
ACL Alu glide little end bearings

deburred, balanced & blue printed
shot peened rods and crank
recut valve seats (3 angle stainless steel valves from the factory)
combustion chambers cleaned up and deburred.
acid dipped block
heat proof painted exhaust manifold and turbine housing
red rocker cover
stainless cap screws
Removed EGR valve
Removed purge tank
Davis Craig thermo fan
Samco blue silicone hose.
Extra engine earths



Outer:
JDM tinted tail lights
clear side repeaters
clear (and inner tinted) front indicators
semi debadged
lipped guards
dark tinted windows
Slimline and offset number plate :lolhit:
Projector headlights
Narva 100mm fog lights
Apex cone HID\\\'s 6000k
LED parkers
"Mook" "GT-Four" spoiler raiser block infills



Inner:
Momo steerer
TRD type 2 gearknob
turbo timer
Autometer phantom II boost guage
Autometer phantom II Oil preasure guage
White face dials by "mook"
Leather recovered centre console and gearshift boot



Stezza n other:
Pioneer mp3 head unit
Pioneer 4 channel amp (splits)
Pioneer 2 channel amp (sub)
JL Audio 6.5" front splits
JL Audio 6" rear splits
JL Audio 10" dvc sub
Pivot voltage stabaliser
Stinger ground loop isolater x2
Odyssey dry cell battery (under drivers seat)
2 way pageing alarm
LED interior lights
LED electric window control light
LED indicators
LED heater control lights
LED dash lights




Suspension and stoppers:
Tein 1 1/2 drop 4.5kg/3.7kg spring rate spring
KYB super special adjustable shocks
Slotted rotors all round
Project Mu B spec pads
Cusco adjustable pillow ball strut tops
Cusco 4 point chassis brace
Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar
Racing Beat adjustable end links.
New fig 8 joints
New leading and trailing control arms
Nolethane front sway bar bushes
Stainless braided brake lines
Motul DOT 5.1 fluid
Rice red and clear coated brake calipers :lolhit: [/size]



Wheels:
Momo m1 18x8.5\\\"
stock ST205 16" 3 spokers (for racing)





Future Plans:
replace all bushes
TRD corners
TRD side skirts
Custom or aftermarket front strut brace
ally radiator and aftermarket oil cooler
and more:


thanks to:
Don (aka dons bodyworks) for the continuous use of the hoist/pit, and painting.
Tangcla for the continuing seach for parts
ART in melbourne for the tune

At the time of writing its making 265 kw atw on 22psi, with the radiator sturggling with engine temps. Best from the stock turbowas 204 kw atw.
best 1/4 mile was 12.8 @ 108 mph (stock turbo, 200kw atw)






















Hot Rod :lolhit:


Good head.


If you squint you can read HKS 3SG








This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Aug 13, 2009 - 2:09 AM

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

Well then i guess as im back i should tell the story of my eventful weekend in melb.

So was on my way to the dyno friday morning, turned off springvale road onto the freeway, following an old lancer doing about 2500 rpm, then as im on the onramp just about to merg the car cuts out, no ignition signal was getting to the tacho so i instantly knew it was dizzy or igniter related (or associated wiring). I rolled down a few hundred meters and pulled well off into the emergency stop lane.
Car cranked fine but no rpm signal.

So here i am in the middle of peak hour traffic, with a car that doesnt go on the side of the freeway...stoked.

Checked for any loose wiring, couldnt see any. So i called a couple of mates, they bought some tools down and also ump mans old 185. I tried the igniter off the 185 and that didnt fix it so by process of elimiation it had to be distributer related. So i pulled off the cap and as i did so it became apparent the rotor button free spins.

this was the cause.




Why this happened i have no idea, there is no load on the rotor button so there is no reason for it to break. Only things i can think of is something in the dizzy bound up and broke the teeth off they are only cintered metal, but still shouldnt break in a million years.

After saying many words that rhyme with fire truck and punt i decided the side of the road wasnt the best place to pull a rocker cover off and look for the pieces of dizzy. So called a towie and got a flat bed to the workshop, $80 it cost me which wasnt bad as it was about half an hour drive.

At the workshop the owner let me back the car into a corner and work on it myself, got the rocker cover off and found the first peice of dizzy easy, was sitting just under where the dizzy drive is on the cam. The other peice however was well on its way to the sump down one of the oil drains, maybe half way down. Managed to get it with a little magnet on a telascopic bit...that was an epic relief. Cleaned up the surface and chucked the rocker cover back on and let it settle.

So then we had to get another dizzy, called toyospares and they luckily had one in stock, so a mate took me the hour or so round trip to pay the $220 for a dizzy, sux the big floppy donky dick but had no choice, they had one...i needed it and they knew it :lolhit:

Back at the workshop chucked the dizzy in, checked the timing and it was all good. Drove around to the dyno room and started some serious business. By this time it was around 3:00. We noticed it was cutting out at around 6800 (well below 7300 redline) but still made 221 atw which was reasonable for 1 bar of boost. Ray (workshop owner) spent the best part of the next 4 hours fixing up the map that was in it, fixing idle and midrange etc. I did buy a 3 bar map sensor with the intention of chucking that in and running around 26 psi or so, but because of the dizzy issue there wasnt time)

So called it a night, i had a car cruise the next day, ray just said tell me how it drives where its flat, hunting etc and he'l play with the map on his lappy at home to fix any holes etc.

Monday came around and back at the workshop, this time got there without a hitch, straight on the dyno. I suggested trying the igniter off the supra that was in his workshop to see how that goes with the missing, as it tuned out my igniter was causing the missing up high, so the rest of the tuning was done with that igniter and ive sinced chucked in the spare i have.

Spend the whole day (ray managed to jiggle stuff around so he had time) tuning the mid/top end, i said cap the boost at around 20 and revs around stock redline (7200).

Stock radiator was very much in struggle town trying to keep the temps in check on the rollers, starting a run at around 85-90 would see around 105 deg c by the end of it (24 sec ramp). Ill be looking into an oil cooler very seriously too.
Injectors are now at 90% duty and we are at load point 20 (last point) on the map so untill i chuck the 3 bar in this is as much power as it shall make.

So with 265kw atw (around 360 hp at the wheels, which is around 400-420 at the engine) at 22 psi and 7250 im pretty happy (non shootout mode, long ramp) ill look into the rad and oil cooler, then sometime down the track ill think about going back to melbourne and chucking the 3bar map and some revs at it.

hot stuff







Some quick shots from a photoshoot me and tang did friday night. Album can be found here: http://www.tangcla.com/photos/celica_090807