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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 9, '08 From California Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
Alright,
So I already know that I'll need to kill both amps and run everything off of just the deck itself (though I plan on wiring in a breakout box to send power to an amp that will power 8" polks). Will the stock wiring hook up to the 1808, or will I need to create a pinout connector and work on the wiring some (I can work my around with a soldering iron, shouldn't be too difficult)? I'm also wondering if anyone has a pinout for the stock mid range amp (the one under the seat). I want to put in another semi-low powered amp in the same spot, and if possible, use the same wiring for the doors. I have also been reading around and in order to get out the stock amp (next to the climate control) I'll need to tear apart most of my dash and center panels. Is there any special operation/order needed to go about doing this (I skimmed through the other thread, I'll re-check it once I get the radio). Thanks, -TC -------------------- Live your life for yourself. Don't hold back for anything or anyone.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 9, '08 From California Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) ![]() |
Hey Guys,
Thought I'd give one last update, in case anyone was wondering on how to do the bezel. I used a dremel with cutting discs and medium sanding discs (250 grit). The whole process took about 2 hours, which included about 12 test fitments, a lot of cleaning up, filling a part that I removed too much with bondo, and repainting the entire trim. As you can see, it doesn't look as perfect as stock, but that's also because I'm cutting away at a mould. There's no way you can get it to look as perfect as stock without some seriously fine tools and probably about 24 hours of sanding/polishing. However, this is the best I could do with the amount of time I had, and the tools on hand. [img=http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.383338abdd.jpg] The one on the left is the new one, while the one on the right is the stock bezel. [img=http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.8109a7cce8.jpg] [img=http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.f870875513.jpg] [img]http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.30ee2e7c80.jpg] [img=http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.7b21cd3817.jpg] [img=http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.c6d0ccf4b2.jpg] [img=http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.0d41c0f9c4.jpg] So like I said, it's not perfect. If you look at the trimmed bezel, you'll notice that the top left and bottom right corners had to be cut in. The new deck doesn't sit the same way as the stock one did, it's actually tilted that way. If you're attempting to do the same mod to your car, look very closely at what mounting points for the bezel I had to remove. If you notice, a large majority of the structural hardeners had to be removed, along with one of the main points. The other pain contact point had to be cut in half, and now the clip that would normally go on it won't fit, I cut it in half instead of removing it in order to keep some structural integrity on that side. You'll also notice how close the bottom left corner is. Had I cut any more away, it probably would have snapped while handling it, in fact I made sure that that side is very precise, it's actually wedged in between the radio and the trim and helps support the deck. I should also mention that you cannot fit the right side mount on the deck itself, only the left. Again, that's one of the reasons why I kept the right mount on the bezel there, the bezel is actually holding up the right side of the unit currently. So to finish it all off, I'd say that this mod is really justified for the person who wants an upgraded sound system, without brining on the flashiness that most decks come with. I can safely park this car in San Francisco without having to worry about someone trying to steal it. -TC -------------------- Live your life for yourself. Don't hold back for anything or anyone.
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: August 22nd, 2025 - 8:56 AM |