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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 20, '07 From Bakersfield, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) ![]() |
Ok, I changed out my rotors and on one side in the rear, (i have discs all around) I have noticed when I put my hand brake up, I heard something that sounded like a spring popping something off. Since then, I literally have to pull my handbrake all the way up just to keep my car in place. So my question is, for anyone who has changed out rotors before... Where the heck do I assemble those two springs? I am going to describe it as best as I can.
On the last rear rotor I did, I noticed a spot for the little retainer part to sit upon, and then you have the pin that goes from behind that hub that faces you, and it appears the spring goes on the outside (the part facing you) over the pin, and there is a button that you position to hold the spring in place that is secured by turned to lock onto the pin. The first one that I did (which I am guessing is my problem), I sort of just placed those behind the hub, yet assembled. So I was just wondering if all were to be assembled outside the hub or behind it near where the pins come out? Since this is my only car and daily driver at the moment, I have not time to let it sit and examine all this, which is why I am asking. It is really bothering me because when I drive, sometimes it seems I hear something rubbing making a scraping sound on that side. Another thing I have noticed, was that since my offset is +48 on my wheels and having gone from 215/40/17 to 225/45/17s, would spacers be a good option (meaning trustworthy, because honestly the thought of using spacers kind of scares me or any type of "Adapters" for that matter on anything) for me at this point, avoiding getting new rims with a better offset for the moment? I noticed when I make a real sharp turn, I can hear them rub. I look under and can see some tire markings on my rear struts, although there is good clearance for just driving straight (Maybe it has to do with the springs and needing tighter suspension like coilovers maybe?). Anyways, if you read this far, I thank you and if you have experience on this to shed some light, I am really eager to hear how I can correct my issue. -------------------- 91 MR2 Turbo SW20, 92 MR2 Turbo SW20, 95 Celica GT ST204
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) ![]() |
The parts I was referring to above in my post are 47449a (x2) and 47447D. In my case, my "outter" 47449a was damaged, causing the whole spring to come apart, which in turn made that side of the e-brake shoe not be held in or clamped down properly (hence the extra give in the e-brake handle). IIRC the replacement for all 3 pieces was like twelve bucks or something at Toyota. No biggie.
Now here's another thing to consider— IF you get in there, and find that all is well (although if you hear something in there, I'm almost POSITIVE you'll find some part of your e-brake shoe spring assembly floating around in the ebrake drum), then you need to check that the e-brake cable itself hasn't come dislodged from its retainer bracket. You'll find the bracket in question up under the car, above the exhaust heat shield. You'll need to remove the heat shield in order to get to it and see it. There's a crappy little bracket, U shaped IIRC, that hold the cable in place. The bracket can be bent fairly easily— in your case, since you say the ebrake worked better at first, it's possible that extra slack was taken up somehow initially, and when you pulled the ebrake up, one of the cables came dislodged from that bracket since there was too much slack. There are two brackets, one for each cable that comes off the wheels. (they join together in another little bracket thingie further up, but you really shouldn't need to worry about that one) -------------------- ![]() |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: August 19th, 2025 - 11:02 AM |