![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 20, '07 From Bakersfield, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) ![]() |
Intro: I have changed my rotors to slotted rotors and now using ceramic brake pads because I suspected them to be better than my current setup. In the midst of all this, as some of you may recall, I had to get part numbers for 2 pins that connect to the horseshoe for the passenger side rear rotor. I got them and I installed them correctly by following the Haynes Manual. Now here's my problem....
It says how you adjust but using a screw driver on the "tension" gear like part that centers once you put your rotors on. I have noticed by adjusting this, I am able to get my rotor stuck in place, or able to slide it out, pending on which way I go (up or down). The book says to go all the way down and try to go 8 clicks up. When I did that, having new brake pads, there was a bit resistance on wheel movement. Is there supposed to be resistance? I dunno, so I freed it up a bit so it spins without a scraping sound. Now tonight, I went out to the mountains because I was curious about my brakes. So I pulled the handbrake and I just gradually slow down, but no screech, even when I pull up all the way. I slam my brakes, and not so much a sudden stop, but better than what the handbrakes did. I am about to read up on ABS, as I do not know much about brakes, but I know my ABS module or motor or whatever is removed in my car, as the relays for ABS. I was wondering if that as an effect on the braking system, as when I applied the brakes, it kind of felt as if only the front were doing anything and not so much the rear. Now it is raining, so I am wondering if them being wet has any bit of impact. I am barely learning engines, and I am eager to learn more about cars, so forgive me if my questions or statements sound n00bish. I just want to be able to have good brakes, and I am afraid to go beyond stock if I cannot understand or correct stock brakes. -------------------- 91 MR2 Turbo SW20, 92 MR2 Turbo SW20, 95 Celica GT ST204
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 2, '08 From SoCal Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) ![]() |
you have a gt right? if so, then you have rear disc brakes and would have been adjusting the parking brake as derrick mentioned. if you have a st, they came with rear drums and would need to be adjusted to work as they were designed. derrick was also right as far as the front brakes doing a majority of the braking. the rear brakes are mainly to keep the car stable when braking and to keep the rear from lifting too much. if you have time tomorrow, give me a call, i don't go to work until 1pm. hopefully i can help walk you through stuff, about to go to bed.
|
![]() |
|
![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) ![]() |
you have a gt right? if so, then you have rear disc brakes and would have been adjusting the parking brake as derrick mentioned. if you have a st, they came with rear drums and would need to be adjusted to work as they were designed. derrick was also right as far as the front brakes doing a majority of the braking. the rear brakes are mainly to keep the car stable when braking and to keep the rear from lifting too much. if you have time tomorrow, give me a call, i don't go to work until 1pm. hopefully i can help walk you through stuff, about to go to bed. Huh? That's completely wrong. The ebrake shoes adjust exactly as he stated the Haynes manual said they do, by turning the adjuster wheel until the brakes are tight and then backing it up 8 clicks. He's trying to adjust his e-brakes, not the rear brakes themselves. The 8 clicks thing isn't really so accurate I've found, as well. Tighten the wheel down until you can't rotate the wheel, then back it off 8 clicks and see where you're at. IIRC I had to back it off a few more after that. And yes, there should be some slight resistance when you try to spin the wheel by hand. Just slight though. Ceramic pads are different than metallic or organic pads. The surface is harder, and they have a longer break-in period. I've got ceramic pads on all 4 of my wheels, and I like them quite well. Just allow some time for them to break in, and also remember that they take a little longer to warm up, so allow yourself a little extra room on cold mornings. I've been very happy with my ceramic pads, I'm pleased with the performance and VERY pleased to not have brake dust. They're definitely not as grabby as the other compounds though, but I don't tailgate ever so it's never been any kind of an issue for me. I've had a few oh sh*t moments where I've had to stop suddenly, and have not felt concerned or disappointed by their performance. (I don't have slotted or drilled rotors, either, just regular OEM style rotors from NAPA) -------------------- ![]() |
![]() ![]() |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: August 22nd, 2025 - 1:12 PM |