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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 20, '07 From Bakersfield, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) ![]() |
Intro: I have changed my rotors to slotted rotors and now using ceramic brake pads because I suspected them to be better than my current setup. In the midst of all this, as some of you may recall, I had to get part numbers for 2 pins that connect to the horseshoe for the passenger side rear rotor. I got them and I installed them correctly by following the Haynes Manual. Now here's my problem....
It says how you adjust but using a screw driver on the "tension" gear like part that centers once you put your rotors on. I have noticed by adjusting this, I am able to get my rotor stuck in place, or able to slide it out, pending on which way I go (up or down). The book says to go all the way down and try to go 8 clicks up. When I did that, having new brake pads, there was a bit resistance on wheel movement. Is there supposed to be resistance? I dunno, so I freed it up a bit so it spins without a scraping sound. Now tonight, I went out to the mountains because I was curious about my brakes. So I pulled the handbrake and I just gradually slow down, but no screech, even when I pull up all the way. I slam my brakes, and not so much a sudden stop, but better than what the handbrakes did. I am about to read up on ABS, as I do not know much about brakes, but I know my ABS module or motor or whatever is removed in my car, as the relays for ABS. I was wondering if that as an effect on the braking system, as when I applied the brakes, it kind of felt as if only the front were doing anything and not so much the rear. Now it is raining, so I am wondering if them being wet has any bit of impact. I am barely learning engines, and I am eager to learn more about cars, so forgive me if my questions or statements sound n00bish. I just want to be able to have good brakes, and I am afraid to go beyond stock if I cannot understand or correct stock brakes. -------------------- 91 MR2 Turbo SW20, 92 MR2 Turbo SW20, 95 Celica GT ST204
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 20, '07 From Bakersfield, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) ![]() |
See, I didn't know about brake pads being "broken in", I was just too excited to have my rotors and said to myself "This isn't right, why is there resistance?" but I see that it is ok with new out of the package pads. Well then.... I have some adjusting to do.
Yeah Derrick, but adjusting the clicks on the hand brakes are only the travel of how you pull it to a desired level is what I meant. Not that tightening down is really going to affect the back. Even the book says you want 3-5 clicks, but when you tighten it, you tighten to your desired level. I asked my friend today too about on his prelude which is all discs. He says he can skid with his Ebrake too, so I want to fix this. I know I shouldn't skid to a hault, but to be able to have it affect my wheels to some degree would be nice for some winding road action. My slotted, powder coated rotors were only $150 shipped anyways. Not that I am made of money, but if I can go about 2-3 years before I have to replace them or something, I don't mind. This post has been edited by Random_Stranger: Dec 11, 2009 - 9:33 PM -------------------- 91 MR2 Turbo SW20, 92 MR2 Turbo SW20, 95 Celica GT ST204
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