Getting Rear wheels to 0 camber?, Try as I might, still at -1 Options

[Harold_Fastwaker]

I just installed my megan coilovers, fronts are still at 0, but the damn rears wont get past -1. Yes, I can go have an alignment done but I do not feel like spending $100 right now. I have tried everything I can think of, including me pulling the top of the knuckle as hard as I can and having someone else crank down the bolts. Doing this got me to -1 instead of being as negative as possible. Any thoughts on how you guys did it?


Oh, and in sad news the left rear stabilizer bar link was rusted over and impossible to swap to the new housing. So that has to be ordered, until then I will drive around with no stabilizer bar. Then on the rear right tire I found a 2 inch sheet metal screw in my tread which when I slightly touched leaked air and needs to be plugged. So awesome to have a plug in a tire that has less than 2k miles on it.


SO, why the hell can't I ever upgrade something on my car without half the other **** attached to it being dead.

[Harold_Fastwaker]

pics! what do ya think of your new set?

pics will have to wait till I get back in town. I may be able to sneak 1 photo in this weekend but its supposed to rain.

They seem to be built pretty solidly. I wish their damn brake line attachment points worked though. The thread pattern is different than stock and they dont even line up with the brake lines to begin with. So I have 4 zip ties on each corner holding the brake line to the strut mount. I noticed in the upscale auto group buy photos that a black ziptie was used to hold the brake line of whomevers car they are showing. Everything is set at 9 for stiffness right now. But I think I will bump it up to 15 or so and see how I like that. It feels great on most of my smooth roads but the random side streets I use are way to bumpy.

those links are the worst to remove especially when they're rusted. i suggest you get some twosrus ones.. they're designed in such a way that they can easily be removed, and also it costs more than 2x less than oem.

Yes, the links suck to remove. I have had to do this twice now and of course the last time I ever plan to remove them it wont come off.

I've heard that the bushings will break easily. Richee3 is using a $40 pair from Autozone, so I'll get those since I'll be pretty much broke after Christmas.

I am ordering a set from Rock Auto for $15. Don't really need to buy the TwosRUs ones right now. I dont plan on doing anything else to the suspension.

I assume you're using a camber kit on the rear?

No camber kit in the rear. We can get up to -3 stock, which is what I started at and then back it off -1. I plan to keep it at -1 now but I need a bigger spacer in the rear (I swapped my front and rear spacers up so I wouldnt rub anymore. But I don't like the look so I need to order another rear).

don't you want camber slightly - to compensate for crown roads?

It is all driver preference.

If you aren't using a camber kit you might be able to do the washer trick. And pictures please.

see above replies.

This post has been edited by Harold_Fastwaker: Dec 18, 2009 - 1:16 PM

[SwissFerdi]

I am ordering a set from Rock Auto for $15. Don't really need to buy the TwosRUs ones right now. I dont plan on doing anything else to the suspension.

These?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1004712

[Harold_Fastwaker]

I am ordering a set from Rock Auto for $15. Don't really need to buy the TwosRUs ones right now. I dont plan on doing anything else to the suspension.

These?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1004712

Yep those. I figure why the hell not and give it a shot.

The car drives pretty good without a rear swaybar right now. But I can easily notice that it is not there.