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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 9, '08 From Blainville Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) ![]() |
My idle varies between 650 and 900 rpm and is a bit rough (The steering wheel is quite shaky), but as soon as I give it some gas (Just a LITTLE, around 950-1000rpm or more) it becomes a lot smoother and the steering wheel stops shaking.
I was wondering if changing the fuel filter and reseting the ECU could solve the problem? Thanks! This post has been edited by dudeofchaos: Oct 12, 2010 - 11:34 PM |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 26, '10 From Portsmouth, OH Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
try a new distributor cap and rotar button
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 19, '07 From tx Currently Offline Reputation: 22 (100%) ![]() |
try a new distributor cap and rotar button X2 - It amazes me the amount of people that spend high dollar on namebrand spark plugs and wires and then either cheap out [Ie. non-OEM] Cap and rotor or don't replace them at all. If you don't replace the cap and rotor you have only done half the ignition system tuneup. I also cannot stress enough that OEM Cap and Rotors are the ONLY ones you should be putting on these cars. These engines really respond poorly to autozone or w/e cap and rotors. -------------------- ![]() ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI] PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYO SUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/ INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper Sports EXT: WRC/TRD/404 Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them. Slow down Paul Walker. 6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url] |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: May 28th, 2025 - 12:43 AM |