St205 CEL issues, Random CEL Diagnostic not working Options

[CDUB]

Okay start off the car is a94 st205 jap import with light mods. now my issue is that the Check Engine Light is illuminating after a few minutes of driving the car but i believe it shouldn't be flashing like it is and should come on permanently till the fault it fixed or the ecu is reset? My light will flash a random number of times then go off for a random period of time.(will flash once a second between 2-10times then go off for a random period of time)

Also, i know how to read the codes by bridgeing te1 and e1 in the diagnostics port but when i turn the ign to "on" the cel comes on then off after about 3 seconds like a normal start up.

The car is not acting any different with the light on or off as compared to the last 30XXXkm I've driven it.

The CEL only started happening since it got very cold here.

Anyone have insight on to why the CEL is flashing and not coming on permanently or why I am unable to retrieve codes.

I've tried just resetting the ecu a few times now but this issue is still around

If it helps i can get a video of the dash while I'm driving if anyone thinks it will help.

[CDUB]

Well turns out my intercooler was slightly low, topped it up and properly bled it this time and CEL is gone and no trace of it in over a week now.

Noticed the connection between the CEL comming on at the same time the IC pump would start up. It must of been sucking the coolant down below the sensor, then coolant would slosh around intermittently closing the sensor.

For anyone else having this issue I would check the IC coolant level it will look full but when the pump comes on it actually sucks down quite a bit.

This post has been edited by CDUB: Nov 27, 2010 - 2:57 PM

[black13]

Mine comes on as well in colder than -15c or so weather after a couple min of driving but it constantly stays on till car is re-started.

Well turns out my intercooler was slightly low, topped it up and properly bled it this time and CEL is gone and no trace of it in over a week now.

Noticed the connection between the CEL comming on at the same time the IC pump would start up. It must of been sucking the coolant down below the sensor, then coolant would slosh around intermittently closing the sensor.

For anyone else having this issue I would check the IC coolant level it will look full but when the pump comes on it actually sucks down quite a bit.

Do you check the level when the engine is running then? and did you use the pink coolant stuff from Toyota?

[CDUB]

Mine comes on as well in colder than -15c or so weather after a couple min of driving but it constantly stays on till car is re-started.

Well turns out my intercooler was slightly low, topped it up and properly bled it this time and CEL is gone and no trace of it in over a week now.

Noticed the connection between the CEL comming on at the same time the IC pump would start up. It must of been sucking the coolant down below the sensor, then coolant would slosh around intermittently closing the sensor.

For anyone else having this issue I would check the IC coolant level it will look full but when the pump comes on it actually sucks down quite a bit.

Do you check the level when the engine is running then? and did you use the pink coolant stuff from Toyota?

Ya to properly fill up the Intercooler the motor has to be running. Top it up, then you have to blip the throttle (i just used the TB in the engine bay) as I know now that the IC pump only comes on when the throttle is open and for 30sec after so every 20 sec or so just blip the throttle again to keep the pump going. You should watch the coolant get sucked down a tiny amount top it off and keep the pump going for a couple mins then throw the cap on while the pump is still active.

I never did this last winter and just topped the IC off with the motor running assuming the pump ran all the time leading to my problems.

I use toyota red "for life" coolant...

This post has been edited by CDUB: Nov 27, 2010 - 3:20 PM

[delusionz]

Ya to properly fill up the Intercooler the motor has to be running. Top it up, then you have to blip the throttle (i just used the TB in the engine bay) as I know now that the IC pump only comes on when the throttle is open and for 30sec after so every 20 sec or so just blip the throttle again to keep the pump going. You should watch the coolant get sucked down a tiny amount top it off and keep the pump going for a couple mins then throw the cap on while the pump is still active.

I never did this last winter and just topped the IC off with the motor running assuming the pump ran all the time leading to my problems.

I use toyota red "for life" coolant...

this is the correct way to do it. its worked for me in the past, but now i cant get rid of that damn code 54 and cel light. i'm thinking of just cutting the wires out and shorting them together, is this how you do it? or do u need a resistor?