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Enthusiast Joined May 25, '10 From Bellbrook, Ohio Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
hey guys, ive had my sub for almost a year now and i finally had time to get my amp. after looking at the car, i realized i have no idea what im doing haha. this is my first car so ive never done anything like this before. so, for people who have doen this before, where did you go through the fire wall? did you have to drill your own hole? where did you mount your amp and all that. i cannot mout in under the seats do to the seat heaters that are already there. any help would be great and pics would be awesome!!
![]() thanks guys!! -T |
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Apr 28, '09 From Auburn, AL Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I would like to expound upon the alternator thing. You don't need to upgrade alternator until you get to 1,500 WRMS or more on this car. AND, caps suck by themselves and can only handle about 80-100 wrms per farad effectively unless used in tandem with a --car audio-- battery or in a full-range (not subwoofer) application. Enter Shuriken. Get a small 1-2F cap and a Shuriken BT20 and you can handle 1,000 wrms without breaking a sweat. BT20 alone is great up to about 600 WRMS to a subwoofer.
EDIT - just so I'm not misunderstood, the alternator with no help from aftermarket capacitance (Dry cell battery or cap) can NOT handle 1,500 wrms. That is just the point about at which it is more cost effective to upgrade the alternator than to get more capacitance. AMP - a popular place is either attached to the back of the seat or directly on enclosure. Preferably seat if possible GROUND - Make certain you grind away down to bare metal wherever you ground your system to, and put some vaseline or grease on it to avoid rust POWER - you actually can fit up to a 4g wire in the existing plastic wire track under your door sills, i suggest running it there. REMOTE - find the ACC fuse, pull it out, and use a multimeter to find which side of the terminal has NO power. Insert your remote wire there so if the fuse blows it won't continue pulling current Do you have an enclosure already? And what sub is it? I can get you specs for a perfect box for that sub depending on what type of bass you like (LOUD and muddy or low and tight) This post has been edited by DGolden32: Mar 9, 2011 - 1:43 AM |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: July 13th, 2025 - 3:26 AM |