Code 54, Does this put computer in lymph mode? Options

[injection]

Question for all you gurus out there...if the st205 throws. Code 54, which I believe is faulty IC pump, or coolant level sensor, or both...will this cause ECU to go into lymph mode/protection mode, meaning will it cut your boost in half to about 6-7psi,

[Geddes]

It should still be able to tell if the pump is not working even if you bridge that connector (all that sensor is, is an on off switch, you've just got it permanently set to off now). It's got a separete circuit that is supposed to be able to tell if the pump is coming on or not. My 205 was giving me code 54 even with that connector bridged. The pump was seized up (one of the 2 bearings inside it was completely seized, and a few of the connections on the stator were burned up too). I was able to fix it for about 2$. (a new bearing, and a bit of soldering and its been working great ever since..)

If your not up to the task of taking it apart yourself.. any starter/alt rebuilding spot can probably do it for you (they are pretty well just a wiper motor with an impeller on the end). There is a pretty good DIY instruction thing at http://gtfour.co.uk/ under the How to > Repair/maitain > overhaul IC pump

The easist way to tell if its working or not is to pull the cap off the intercooler and rev the motor to see if it will pull the level of the fluid down.. (another tip about this is that if it IS pulling the fluid down, you have to fill the ic up while the pump is on otherwise that level sensor is likely going to tell you that its low and throw the light on, so hold the throttle, fill it to the top, and then put the cap back on while the pump is still running.. kind of a pain in the ass haha)
If you want to really confirm its operation you can jump power to it through the relay which is located in the small relay holder near the rad. (I don't recommend this if your not confident that you know exactly what you are doing, as if you jump power down the control side of the connector you will likely cook the ecu)

[injection]

It should still be able to tell if the pump is not working even if you bridge that connector (all that sensor is, is an on off switch, you've just got it permanently set to off now). It's got a separete circuit that is supposed to be able to tell if the pump is coming on or not. My 205 was giving me code 54 even with that connector bridged. The pump was seized up (one of the 2 bearings inside it was completely seized, and a few of the connections on the stator were burned up too). I was able to fix it for about 2$. (a new bearing, and a bit of soldering and its been working great ever since..)

If your not up to the task of taking it apart yourself.. any starter/alt rebuilding spot can probably do it for you (they are pretty well just a wiper motor with an impeller on the end). There is a pretty good DIY instruction thing at http://gtfour.co.uk/ under the How to > Repair/maitain > overhaul IC pump

The easist way to tell if its working or not is to pull the cap off the intercooler and rev the motor to see if it will pull the level of the fluid down.. (another tip about this is that if it IS pulling the fluid down, you have to fill the ic up while the pump is on otherwise that level sensor is likely going to tell you that its low and throw the light on, so hold the throttle, fill it to the top, and then put the cap back on while the pump is still running.. kind of a pain in the ass haha)
If you want to really confirm its operation you can jump power to it through the relay which is located in the small relay holder near the rad. (I don't recommend this if your not confident that you know exactly what you are doing, as if you jump power down the control side of the connector you will likely cook the ecu)

Nice info man... That's why I love this place, you learn something new everyday,