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![]() Enthusiast ![]() Joined Jan 11, '07 From carmel, new york Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) ![]() |
Soooooooo, I have had to send my 26 out to be rebuilt and in the process have found that the turbine wheels need to be changed. The shop that has the turbo says that they can't get the JDM ceramic wheels so they will have to use steel ones.
1) how will this affect my spool time/ Lag? (new to forced induction, understand the basics but am still a little fuzzy on the intricacies) 2) anyone know where to get the ceramic wheels? 3) any one have a JDM importers # or a 26 or 20b they can spare? Thanks for your input and assistance all. |
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Feb 5, '09 From New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Soooooooo, I have had to send my 26 out to be rebuilt and in the process have found that the turbine wheels need to be changed. The shop that has the turbo says that they can't get the JDM ceramic wheels so they will have to use steel ones. 1) how will this affect my spool time/ Lag? (new to forced induction, understand the basics but am still a little fuzzy on the intricacies) 2) anyone know where to get the ceramic wheels? 3) any one have a JDM importers # or a 26 or 20b they can spare? Thanks for your input and assistance all. Stay away from the ceramic wheel, IMHO that's one of the worst things about the CT26. When they get hot they can shatter. If you're running low octane you have to retard timing at higher boost levels to prevent det and the wheel gets hotter while pushing harder. Go with the steel wheel rebuild if it's heaps cheaper than buying a new turbo, be aware that a 2nd hand turbo could be due for a rebuild too (would be more worth it with a '20b'. ST215 Caldina GTT turbo (C15?) will bolt up to a gen3 engine and isn't a bad option either. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() Joined Jan 11, '07 From carmel, new york Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) ![]() |
Stay away from the ceramic wheel, IMHO that's one of the worst things about the CT26. When they get hot they can shatter. If you're running low octane you have to retard timing at higher boost levels to prevent det and the wheel gets hotter while pushing harder. Go with the steel wheel rebuild if it's heaps cheaper than buying a new turbo, be aware that a 2nd hand turbo could be due for a rebuild too (would be more worth it with a '20b'. ST215 Caldina GTT turbo (C15?) will bolt up to a gen3 engine and isn't a bad option either. I was under the impression that the ceramics allowed for faster spooling and reduced load. Am I incorrect in this assumption. This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 3, 2011 - 10:17 PM |
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