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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 13, '06 From Kaimuki, HI Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) ![]() |
So I picked up this mount from a local auto parts store..compared it with my old one and everything is the same..until I put it on. I noticed when I put it on that the two studs on the bottom that stick through the crossmember and frame don't have the thread length that the one I pulled off had. Basically what I'm saying is the two studs that stick through the crossmember/frame have threads that go until about 1/4 inch from the tip, the last 1/4 inch has no threads. It is solid like the threads have been grinded or stripped off, but they weren't it looks to be made like this. The studs on the old one and the studs on the new one are the same length, but the new one has shorter thread length and same overall length. I thought when I bolted the two studs down it would pull the mount closer to the crossmember..I was wrong. Now only about half of the threads in the nut are touching the stud's threads, I haven't tightened it all the way for fear of stripping it. I'm sure that the ones of you that have changed this mount know how much of a pain it is to get it off without taking out the power steering system. And it sucks that I realized this after I put it in. There is no way I can expect it to hold without pulling the threads off of the nut or the stud. What's worse is the place that I got it from was the only place on island that I could find that could get it for me next day, now I either have to pull it off and take it back, or risk it to see if it holds(and my guess is that it won't). Either way I have to wait a week to get another one.
Basically it is stis style, the threads stop, and they should continue on to the tip. ![]() -------------------- -Jay
95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other 01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished 02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 13, '06 From Kaimuki, HI Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) ![]() |
I've thought about that..but i'll have to pull itout to see of I can do that..i think they welded it in though..i don't think it will be like wheel studs..
-------------------- -Jay
95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other 01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished 02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: July 20th, 2025 - 1:32 PM |