 battery relocation, some help |
 Jul 17, 2011 - 7:19 PM
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Enthusiast  Joined Jul 5, '09 From Katy/houston Currently Offline Reputation: 16 (100%)  |
my engine bay doesnt really have enough space for some reason even though i have a stock(ish) 5s. so im looking to relocate my battery to the trunk.
two things...the previous owner(s) really kept effin the terminals so the wire which connects to my positive terminal, is really short so thats causing my battery be closer to the engine and hence taking more space. so either i relocate my battery or just extend those wires. so the question is: 1. how to relocate a battery for a noob? 2. how to extend those wires without buying a new harness? i would obviously choose the easier/cheaper option so please help. thank you in advance -------------------- For Sale:OEM tail lights - make offer
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Jul 20, 2011 - 12:59 AM
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 Moderator Joined Jun 29, '08 From Denver Currently Offline Reputation: 59 (100%) |
Exactly like your diagram. I would either use a 2 or 4 gauge wire, nothing smaller. In the battery relocation thread that I linked, you'll notice that some people mentioned that their car didn't start as well, that it almost acted like a dying battery. Mine does the same, but the car still starts. As far as running accessories, it doesn't act like the battery is any different. You'll want to find a way to secure the battery to make sure it doesn't go sliding around. I opted for a plastic battery box typically used for boats. It cost me like $10, 25 feet of 4 gauge wire was like $30, a battery cable splice was like $3 or $4, and I drilled a hole in the firewall to run the wire through, so you'll want to pick up a grommet for that as well. One negative effect is that the battery does let off fumes, but the fumes are so minimal that they really don't count because you'll still be opening your doors and your trunk which will let the fumes out.
As far as that ring connector goes, you'll want something heavier duty than that. You'll have a lot of power going through a tiny ring connector. Your best bet is to take the factory terminal off of the factory wire and put a battery cable splice or junction block between the factory positive wire and your new wire going to the trunk. This post has been edited by richee3: Jul 20, 2011 - 1:03 AM -------------------- "Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us to use the search button!
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Posts in this topic
Malhar95 battery relocation Jul 17, 2011 - 7:19 PM
stephen_lee there is a small wire u can just crimp another sma... Jul 18, 2011 - 11:01 AM 95CelicaST just buy a smaller battery and leave it in the fro... Jul 18, 2011 - 11:03 AM Malhar95 QUOTE just buy a smaller battery and leave it in t... Jul 18, 2011 - 4:45 PM richee3 http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...ery++... Jul 18, 2011 - 7:13 PM stephen_lee use a crimp connection. if u can, solder them as w... Jul 18, 2011 - 10:41 PM Malhar95 ok i think i somewhat understand the concept.
i w... Jul 19, 2011 - 1:41 PM richee3 Exactly. Just make sure your chassis is still grou... Jul 19, 2011 - 6:56 PM
Malhar95 QUOTE (richee3 @ Jul 19, 2011 - 7:56... Jul 19, 2011 - 11:33 PM stephen_lee I have 0 gauge wire running between the batteries ... Jul 20, 2011 - 8:46 AM |
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